For My Dad, on Father's Day

© 2009 ~ Betsy S. Franz – All rights reserved. Note: This article was written and previously published in 2009.

When I was growing up, my father was an avid photographer. This was long before digital cameras and photo-taking cell phones made every lifetime event a potentially permanent one.

In my youth, capturing memories required a bit more thought and preparation. Film and flashbulbs had to be purchased, photos were taken and then the eager viewers had to wait for developing and printing. Without the benefit of being able to instantly review one’s shots, some people’s family memories often consisted of blurry unrecognized scenes, glowing red eyes or worse, chopped off heads or other body parts. But not in my family. 

To my father, taking photos was more than a way of recording special events. It was an art. My father was not content with the early point and shoot cameras that were as convenient as dropping in a film cartridge and snapping away. My dad used a camera that required the manual setting of focus and aperture. Dimly lit shots required the use of a tripod. And to insure that the finished products were what he intended them to be, my father even developed and printed his own shots in a basement darkroom.

As kids, we weren’t all that excited with his hobby. It seemed like he was always lurking nearby, camera in hand, ready to interrupt our activities with cries of “Say Cheese!” and the popping of flashbulbs. Special occasions, such as blowing out candles on cakes and opening Christmas presents were slowed down to allow proper framing and lighting. Even events as private as a first kiss or motherly hug often appeared in photographs that we never even knew were being taken.

As I grew into a teen, I began to look at his photos in a new way. I was enthralled with the way that he seemed to be able to capture just the right mood with the careful use of lighting and shadows. The facial expressions seemed to tell entire stories. However, it was his nature and wildlife photos that really changed my life. Looking into his photos allowed me to see things that I hadn’t bothered to notice on my own. Water could be either powerful or serene. Light could be both ominous and inspiring. Something as mundane as a leaf-covered path held unlimited colors, intricate details and miniature worlds of wonder. His photos taught me to not look at things superficially, but to dig deep into the sights around me. In effect, his photos taught me to see.

I was only 20 when my father passed away. A few months before he died, he gave me one of his favorite cameras and a book on how to take photos. That camera, and the many that have succeeded it, have been my constant companions over the years.

I inherited a love of words and writing from my mother. But, as the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. The photography hobby that my father inspired in me has helped me to create images that tell their own wonderful stories and allow me to share images of beauty that others may have overlooked.

I love to thumb through our old family photo albums and relive the times of my life. My mother used to call these albums her walk down memory lane and they were a constant source of pride to her. With every flip of the page, my thoughts to my father are “thanks for the memories.”

But even more important to me than this careful chronicle of my past is the gift that my father gave me for noticing the present.

And so, today, I am going to take my camera outside and spend the day with thoughts of my dad. I’ll take my camera off of full-auto mode and remember the things he taught me about aperatures and shutter speeds. I’ll slow down and look at things closely, wandering around until I see just the right angle with just the right light. I'll try to see the world the way my father taught me to see it. I'll look for the beautiful side of things. And I'll be thankful that I was taught how to see it.

Making New Plants - Workshop - June 21, 22 or 23rd

CHESAPEAKE NATIVES
SUMMER 2011 GARDENING WORKSHOP

MAKING NEW PLANTS

Tuesday, June 21, 2011, 8:30 am – 3:30 pm
repeated on Wednesday June 22, 2011, 8:30 am – 3:30 pm
(Thursday June 23, 2011 by demand)
Research Greenhouse Conference Room, University of Maryland
Delicious vegetarian lunch provided

You have three opportunities to attend this one-day gardening intensive workshop led by Executive Director and Botanist, Dr. Christopher Puttock. Dr. Puttock has extensive experience designing, installing, and maintaining native gardens both in Maryland and abroad. He will be assisted by Ann Wing, head of  seed propagation section, and native landscaper Rochelle Bartolomei of Small Planet Projects.

Using his usual breakout workshop format, Dr. Puttock and his team will help you to maximize the potential of native plants by propagation from cuttings, division, and seed.

TARGET AUDIENCE: Anyone who designs or maintains public or private native gardens, and wants to reduce long-term costs.

BRING: To gain the most from the breakout sessions, participants should think about what native plants they would like to propagate. At the end of the day you should leave feeling confident enough to do the job. Chesapeake Natives will supply tools, some of our seeds, perennials to be divided, and plants to be cut. Be prepared to get your hands dirty. As a bonus, you will get to bring home the fruits of your labor.

Session 1: Making new plants from cuttings. We will begin with a brief introduction to the dos and don'ts of hard and soft stem propagation and what you will need to do this at home or in your greenhouse. Then you will be guided in the process with native plant materials.

Session 2: Making new plants by division. After a brief discussion regarding plant materials in your own yard that you would like to divide, you will get to practice on our collection of native plants. A range of plant materials for division will be provided, guaranteeing the participants experience with handling everything from
the very delicate plants to the very tough plants.

Session 3: Making new plants from seed. You will learn the process of germination, and why it is NOT as easy as just adding water.

PARTICIPANTS: Maximum 30 participants each day.

COST: $50 (covers food, parking, potting, and printed materials).

REGISTRATION : To register email  Tracey Gelner at
volunteer.chesnatives@gmail.com

New Native Plant Database Online !!

It's finally here! What we've all been waiting for. The Alliance for the Chesapeake Bay, in partnership with and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and Image Matters LLC, have unveiled their  online guide to native plants, the Native Plant Center for the Chesapeake Bay Region.

This online guide helps you identify and select native plants and provides you information about their site and care requirements.   Replacing portions of lawn areas and typical landscapes with native plants that suit local conditions reduces or eliminates the need for fertilizers and pesticides which wash into our streams, rivers and, ultimately, the Chesapeake Bay. Once in our waterways, these pollutants fuel the growth of excess algae, which clouds the water and threatens the health of fish, crabs and the entire Chesapeake Bay ecosystem.

Users to the portal, www.nativeplantcenter.net, can search for native plants by name, plant type, sun exposure, soil texture and moisture, and even find native plants with the same shape, color, size or other characteristics as some of their favorite non-native plants. The portal also includes a geo-locator feature to identify plants suited to a user’s specific location.  An online network for interacting with other Chesapeake Bay stewards is planned.

Use the Native Plant Center to research some of the picks from our Favorite Native Plant Series . Or check out the plants on our drought tolerant plants lists trees, shrubs  , perennials and our plants for hummingbirds.

Check it out! Bookmark it! And plant more natives!

Everything you need to know about eco-friendly lawn mowing

I actually enjoy mowing my lawn. We have a riding mower and a rather large piece of property so it's a very relaxing activity for me.

When we began trying to be more eco-friendly in our yard, I  had to make myself cut back on the number of times I mowed and raise the height of the blade. I just hadn't realized that things like that, as well as the sharpness of the mower blade, could make such a big difference in the health of the lawn…and the health of the planet. These actions even help you save water, because sharp mower blades result in less water loss from the grass. Taller grass also encourages a deeper, more extensive root system with increased drought tolerance, and  is also  more effective at shading out weeds in the landscape. And of course, healthier lawns require less chemicals to keep them looking good and green.

Depending on where you live in the Metro DC area and what grass you grow, you will probably mow your lawn 20-40 times a year. Here are some tips to make sure that you don’t do more harm than good when you are performing lawn maintenance:

1)    Get to know your grass – As with everything in your landscape, it’s best to get to know as much as you can about the species that you are dealing with so that you can make the right choices in taking care of it.  Whether you already have an established lawn or are putting in a new one, get to know your grass. Turfgrasses that provide winter lawn color in the area are known as cool-season grasses. Grasses which go dormant after the first hard frost, and stay brown through the winter months are known as warm-season grasses. Your choice of grass species will affect how you mow.  Selecting turfgrass , Turfgrass Species   <— Excellent information  with photos of grass species

2)    Set mowing heights according to grass species  - Once you know what species you have, you can set your mower blade at the recommended height for your species.(See Turfgrass Species link above and check on Planting and Maintenance Tips). While there are some differences in tolerable cutting heights between the various species of warm and cool-season turfgrasses, a general rule of thumb is to clip them in the 2-3 inch range. Mowing tall promotes a deeper root system and improves turf competitions against crabgrass and other warm-season weeds. If your lawn has a white hue rather than a green color after you mow, it is a good bet that you are cutting too low.

3)    Keep blades sharp and balanced – The quickest way to improve lawn quality AND turf health is to keep your mower blade sharpened. A sharp blade will also improve mower fuel efficiency and extend mower engine life.  Blades should be sharpened at least three times per growing season: start the year off with a sharp blade, sharpen it again in late spring, and then once more in mid-late summer.

4)    Adjust mowing height for different seasons– For cool-season grasses, another tip that promotes summer health and performance is to raise the cutting height during the summer.  A higher mowing height in summer helps to cool the crowns of the turfgrass plants and provides more leaf area for photosynthesis during the stressful summer months. Taller cutting heights at these times help maintain the plant’s root system. On the other hand, warm-season grasses respond to mowing on the lower side of their recommended range in the summer by increasing in density.  Whereas fescues and bluegrasses thrive at mowing heights of 2-3 inches during the fall and early spring, for summer the best strategy is to mow at a 3-4 inch height (or even taller).  Raise the cutting deck to its highest setting when it needs clipping and don’t feel compelled to get the mower out at all if the grass is not growing.

5)    Mowing new lawns –  New lawns need time for their roots to become established before they can be mowed for the first time. For seeded lawns, it may take up to 2 months before they are ready to be mowed. Sod may be ready to be mowed within 2 to 3 weeks of planting. Three to six weeks are required for sprigs, stolons, and plugs to become established. For seeded lawns, wait for all of the seeds to germinate before mowing. For sod, sprigs, stolons, and plugs, make sure the roots are firmly planted in the soil before mowing to avoid tearing out new turf.  Follow these tips for new lawns: Be sure that the lawn is fairly dry before mowing so that you do not pull out any of your new lawn. As a general rule, you should let your lawn grow to about one-and-a-half times the recommended height before cutting so that you are cutting off no more than one-third of the height of your lawn at a time. For the first mow, you can let the lawn grow to the high end of the recommended range or even a little higher before cutting to give it a little more time to become established, but be sure to still only cut off one-third of the blade.

6)    Adjust mowing height for shady spots – For shady areas,  mow on the high side of the recommended range in order to maximize the plant’s leaf area.  Your lawn grasses will already be at a huge competitive disadvantage to the trees in regards to light, water, and nutrients, so it needs some special attention to maintain a canopy.

7)    Employ the “1/3^rd rule” of mowing –  Lawn experts recommend that you shouldn’t remove more than 1/3^rd of the leaf blade when you mow.  Removing too much of the foliage while mowing shocks the plant, forcing it to redirect its food resources from roots and stems towards new leaves. That means that if you want to mow to a 3” height, you shouldn’t mow until your grass is 4.5” high. To mow to a 2” height, you would wait until the grass is 3” high.

8)    Mowing very tall grass–If the lawn has gotten away from you, resist the temptation to scalp it in a single mowing event.  Instead, slowly drop the mowing height every 2-3 days while returning the turf to its ideal height.  This will maintain plant health and prevent you from having unsightly piles of clippings that not only look bad, but can also smother the turfgrass and create an environment that favors disease development. Grass clippings should be bagged or raked and removed when mowing grass that has grown too tall.

9)    Change your mowing pattern – Alternate your mowing pattern or direction each time the lawn is mowed.   Repeatedly mowing the lawn in the same direction pushes the grass over rather than cutting it cleanly. Also, different mowing patterns reduce soil compaction and wear from the mower wheels.

10) Grasscycle – Finally, return clippings as often as possible to your turf. Clippings are nothing more than organic fertilizer for your lawn, and if you follow the 1/3^rd rule, you will never produce enough clippings to cause problems with your lawn.  You can reduce your turf’s fertility needs and help the environment by keeping your clippings in your lawn. NEVER blow your clippings into the street,where they can add to local stormwater pollution.

For More Information: Mow Like a Pro

Sources:  Virginia Cooperative Extension, University of California IPM

8 Ways to Compost, From Treehugger

Composting is a very eco-friendly and easy process for any home gardener. When used as an additive for garden soil,compost can help plants make it through times of drought and extreme weather temperatures.

Organic matter such as yard and food waste make up about 23% of the waste that is generated in the United States. Composting is a way to re-use this organic waste to keep it out of the landfills while creating natural soil additives for your gardens. When worked into the soil, compost provides essential nutrients, improves soil texture, moderates temperatures, and increases the ability of the soil to absorb air and water. It also suppresses weed growth, decreases erosion, and reduces the need to apply commercial soil additives, thereby saving you money.

There is a great new post and slideshow on TreeHugger called 8 Ways to Compost and Which One You Should Try. I couldn't really think of 8 ways, so I thought the article was worth a read. After reading the article, I'm still not sure I would really consider these 8 different ways, but here is what they have listed. Pop on over to the full post for more details.

1) Hot Composting - By creating conditions where microorganisms thrive, hot composting generates significant amounts of heat. Takes some work but the compost breaks down relatively quickly.

2) Cold Composting - Easier but slower. More likely to have weeds and diseases.

3) Vermicomposting or Worm Composting- Let worms do the work.

4) Leaf mold - Piling up your leaves and letting them rot. Similar to #2, but only made of leaves.

5) Grub Composting - A small container that uses the larva of the black soldier fly to create compost in a matter of days.

6) Compost Tumblers - Compost tumblers offer a convenient, labor-saving alternative to turning a hot compost heap—and they help to break down compost a lot faster than a cool heap too.

7) Humanure Compost - Making compost out of human waste.

8 ) Municipal Composting - Letting government agencies collect yard waste and turn it into mulch. (See our resources page for sources for free and low cost municipal mulch in the Metro DC area)

Citizen Scientists Wanted to help Monitor Stinkbugs

I've previously written about the value of Citizen Scientists. Citizen Scientists are individuals who help to monitor local wildlife trends by reporting various "critters" they see in their own yards. There are various Citizen Science programs for birds, butterflies, frogs and other critters. But now Jon Traunfeld, of the University of Maryland Extension, is asking for local citizens to help monitor Stink Bugs.

According to this post on Susan Reimer's Garden Variety Blog, Jon Traunfeld and the University of Maryland Extension are asking the rest of us to help keep track of stink bugs by noting which fruits or vegetables they are not just sitting on, but feeding on.

The extension service will compile the information to help develop a comprehensive list of the plants that stink bugs love the best. Right now, that list includes tomatoes, peppers, beans, corn, asparagus, raspberry, peach, pear and apple.

Let the extension know if the stink bugs are worse in your garden this year than last. Send him an email at jont@umd.edu

Also, check out the new floating row cover web page and photo gallery for some ideas on how to exclude pests, like the stink bug, from your garden plants. http://www.growit.umd.edu/ImproveGarden/FloatingRowCover/index.cfm

How to Grow a Pizza Garden - June 15th

What child doesn't love pizza? And what better way to get kids interested in gardening then teaching them how to grow their own pizza garden? This free talk will teach children and their adults the basics!

When: Wednesday, June 15, 7 p.m.
Where: Arlington Central Library Community Garden (near east side doors) 1015 N. Quincy St., Arlington, Va.

What: Garden Talk–How to Grow a Pizza
Children and their adults will learn how one of their favorite foods is closely connected to the garden. They can also help plant pizza ingredients in containers that will then be given away. It's a great way to encourage young people to think about where their food comes from and increase their interest in gardening. Presented by Anne Santarone and Gary Fremerman.

Call 703-228-6321 for more information.

Beneficial, drought tolerant native plants for the Metro DC area - trees and shrubs

The following is a list of native plants which are designated as drought tolerant by local sources. Additional benefits such as value for birds, butterflies, and humans are listed. Please see index to abbreviations at end of list.

Beneficial Native, Drought Tolerant Plants for the Metro DC Area Plants marked with an * were selected as Favorite Native Plants by local experts See code to abbreviations at bottom of list
Scientific Name	Common Name	Type	Light	DT	Bi	Bu	Hu	Fl	Fr
Acer negundo	Box elder	Tree	Su	X	X	X	X	-	-
Acer rubrum	Red maple	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	-	-	-	-
Amelanchier canadensis	Shadblow serviceberry	Tree/Shrub	Su-PS	X	X	-	X	X	-
Amelanchier laevis	Smooth serviceberry	Shrub	Su-PS	X	X	-	X	X	X
Betula lenta	Cherry birch, Sweet birch	Tree	Sh, PS	X	X	X	X	-	-
*Betula nigra	River birch	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	-	-	-	-
*Callicarpa Americana	Beautyberry	Shrub	Sh	X	X	-	-	X	-
Carya alba	Mockernut hickory	Tree	PS-FS	X	X	X	-	-	-
Carya glabra	Pignut hickory	Tree	PS-FS	X	-	-	-	-	-
Carya ovata	Shagbark hickory	Tree	Su-PS	X	-	-	X	-	-
Ceanothus americanus	New Jersey tea, Redroot	Shrub	Su-PS	X	X	X	X	X	-
*Cercis canadensis	Redbud	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	-	X	X	X
Cornus Florida	Flowering Dogwood	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	X	X	X	X
Diospyros virginiana	Persimmon	Tree	Su-Sh	X	X	X	X	-	-
Fraxinus americana	White ash	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	X	X	-	-
Fraxinus pennsylvanica	Green ash, Red ash	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	X	-	-	-
Hamamelis virginiana	Witch hazel	Tree	Su-PS	X	-	-	X	X	X
Ilex glabra	Inkberry	Shrub	PS	X	X	-	-	-	-
Ilex vomitoria	Yaupon holly	Shrub	Su-Sh	X	X	X	X	-	-
Juniperus virginiana	Eastern red cedar	Tree	SU-PS	X	X	-	-	-	X
Liriodendron tulipifera	Tuliptree, Tulip poplar	Tree	SU-PS	X	H	X	X	X	-
*Nyssa sylvatica	Black tupelo, Sourgum	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	-	-	-	-
*Oxydendrum arboreum	Sourwood, Sorrel tree	Tree	Su-PS	X	-	-	-	X	-
Pinus echinata	Shortleaf pine	Tree	Su-PS	X	-	-	-	-	-
Pinus strobus	Eastern white pine	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	-	-	-	-
Pinus taeda	Loblolly pine	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	X	-	-	-
Pinus virginiana	Virginia pine	Tree	Su	X	X	X	-	-	-
Prunus serotina	Wild Black cherry, Rum cherry	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	-	X	X	-
*Quercus alba	White oak	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	X	-	-	-
*Quercus coccinea	Scarlet oak, Red oak	Tree	Su-PS	X	-	-	-	-	-
Quercus falcata	Southern red oak, Spanish oak	Tree	Su	X	-	-	-	-	-
Quercus palustris	Pin oak	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	X	-	-	-
Quercus rubra	Northern red oak	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	-	-	-	-
Quercus stellata	Post oak	Tree	PS	X	X	X	-	-	-
Rhododendron prinophyllum	Early azalea, Rose azalea	Shrub	Su-FS	X	-	-	-	X	-
Rhus aromatica	Fragrant sumac	Shrub	Su-PS	X	X	X	-	X	X
Rhus copallinum	Winged sumac	Shrub	Su	X	X	-	-	-	-
Rhus glabra	Smooth sumac	Shrub	Su-PS	X	X	X	X	X	-
Robinia pseudoacacia	Black locust, Honey locust	Tree	Su	X	H	X	-	X	X
Rosa Carolina	Pasture rose	Shrub	Su-Sh	X	X	-	-	X	X
Rubus allegheniensis	Alleghany blackberry	Shrub	Su-Sh	X	X	-	-	X	-
Sambucus canadensis	Common elderberry	Shrub	Su-PS	X	X	-	X	X	-
Sassafras albidum	Sassafras	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	X	X	-	X
Taxodium distichum	Bald cypress	Tree	Su	X	-	-	-	-	-
Tsuga canadensis	Eastern hemlock	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	X	-	-	X
Vaccinium angustifolium	Northern lowbush blueberry	Shrub	Su-Sh	X	X	-	X	-	-
Vaccinium stamineum	Deerberry	Shrub	Su-PS	X	X	-	X	-	-
Vaccinium corymbosum	Highbush blueberry	Shrub	Su-Sh	X	X	-	X	X	-
Viburnum dentatum	Southern arrowwood	Shrub	Su-PS	X	X	-	-	X	-
Viburnum rufidulum	Rusty blackhaw	Tree	Su-PS	X	X	-	-	-	-

** Note: this list was created for the Metro DC Lawn and Garden Blog and may not be copied without permission. However, please feel free to link to this page and to subscribe to the blog for future lists.

Light: FS=Full Su, S=Su, Sh=Sh

Su	Full Su: direct sunlight at least six hours a day.
PS	Partial Sh: direct sunlight between three to six hours.
Sh	Sh: less than three hours of direct sunlight a day.

Benefits: W=Wildlife Value; Bi=Attracts birds; Bu=Attracts Butterflies; Hu=Human Value, edible or medicinal; Fr=Fragrant, Fl=Fowers

H in bird column signifies Hummingbirds. Plants which an X in the butterfly column are ofter HOST plants for specific butterfly species.

Sources: Xeriscaping and Conserving Water in the Landscape (PDF) – Maryland Cooperative Extension

Drought Tolerant Plants for the Mid-Atlantic Region (pdf) download from Charlottesville Water

Plant lists from: Native Plants for Conservation, Restoration and Landscaping, Virginia DCR

Most of the plant benefits were obtained from the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Org. Native Plant Database

Freeze your bra, and other tips for beating the heat in the garden

When I was growing up, it was a common practice at slumber parties to take the bra of one of the girls who fell asleep, dampen it, and put it in the freezer. The gag was that in the morning, she presumably had to either wear the frozen bra home or go without. For some reason, this memory always comes back to me when I am outside, sweltering in the garden in 95+ degree heat. Ahhhhhh. A frozen bra sounds like the answer to everything.

Regardless of how hot it is outside, most gardeners are going to want to go out there and mess around in their gardens anyway. But heat stress is a serious issue that shouldn’t be taken lightly so it’s a good time for some:

Hints and Tips for keeping Cool while Working in the Garden

Heat stress occurs when your body can’t get rid of excess body heat quickly enough. According to a document on the Virginia Cooperative Extension website “The majority of heat-related illnesses - early heat illness or fainting, heat cramps, heat rash, and heat exhaustion - are considered minor.” (Although, personally, I wouldn’t consider fainting outside in my yard a minor problem.) But in extreme cases, high temperatures can cause heat stroke, which can lead to death.

The symptoms for heat illness are pretty vague and include dizziness, fatigue and difficulty making decisions. Since these symptoms describe my natural state most of the time, I figure it might be pretty difficult to know whether the heat is really getting to me or not, so I always follow these steps for staying cool in extreme heat.

1) Plan garden activities for the cooler times of the day. Early morning and late evening are best or even during the rain if there isn’t any lightning. Some garden activities, such as watering, pruning and dead heading, etc., are better for the plants when done in early morning. And applying garden chemicals (organic, of course) is more effective if done in the late afternoon when the wind is down and beneficial insects are not present.

2) Wear proper clothing. Loose fitting, light colored, lightweight, breathable fabrics, such as cotton, are best. Avoid non-breathable synthetics. Breathable fabrics help aid sweat evaporation. If you are around your own home, wear as little clothing as possible WITHOUT exposing too much skin to harmful UV rays. I have to admit that I have never tried freezing my bra, but the women in my family have been gardening braless for generations, and I hate to break tradition.

3) Protect your skin and eyes. Wear a wide-brimmed hat (also keeps you cooler) and sunglasses and use sunscreen of SPF 15 or higher (the most effective products say “broad spectrum” or “UVA/UVB protection” on their labels). Sunburn affects your body's ability to cool itself and causes loss of body fluids. It also causes pain and damages the skin. Apply sunscreen 30 minutes prior to going out and continue to reapply it according to the package directions.

4) Cool your pulse points. Applying cold water to your pulse points is much better than wearing a frozen bra. Your pulse points - areas where you can feel your pulse because your blood vessels are close to the surface of your skin- are the direct super highway to cooling off your blood and body temperature. I usually take a couple of bandanas and keep them soaking in cool water while I work outside. I wring one out, fold it down and tie it around either my neck, wrists or inner elbows. Believe me, this trick works. Splashing water on your temples or face can produce a similar effect. Another way to cool your pulse points is to stick your feet in cool water. Keep a plastic kiddy pool or large tub filled with water in your yard and walk through it from time to time. You can also use the water to give your plants a drink when you are done with it.

5) Skip the strenuous chores – 100 degree weather is no time to be digging ditches or lugging bags of compost. Work on the easy chores like watering and weeding and save more extensive chores for another day.

6) Drink plenty of fluids. Don't wait until you are thirsty to have a drink. Keep a bottle nearby and visit it often. No, sorry, beer and wine don’t count and neither does iced coffee. These products actually cause your body to lose body fluids. Plain water is preferred, except when heat cramps occur (then drink a lightly salted beverage like a sports drink). Several sights I checked said you should drink 2-4 glasses of water an hour (16 – 32 oz). The water's temperature should be cool, not cold. Very cold drinks can cause stomach cramps.

7) Replace lost salt and minerals . Heavy sweating removes salt and minerals from the body. These are necessary for your body and must be replaced. A sports beverage can replace the salt and minerals you lose in sweat.

8 ) Avoid hot foods, and keep meals light. Foods (like proteins) that increase metabolic heat production also increase water loss (the body has to work harder - and use more blood - to digest heavy foods).

9) Take lots of breaks. Personally, drinking 2 – 4 glasses of water every hour is going to force me to take breaks. But even if your bladder isn’t calling for a pit stop, don’t wait until your heart starts pounding and you feel light headed to take a break. Set the timer on your watch or cellphone and go inside or rest in the shade for a few minutes every hour. Check your email. Or call another friend who you know is out gardening to force them to take a little break, too.

10) Don’t garden alone. Even if you are following all of the other rules, and you are healthy as a horse, why risk fainting …or worse, while working in your yard alone. Gardening with friends is always much more fun anyway.

The following are just some of the signs, symptoms, causes and treatments of heat related illnesses from Gardening and Your Health, a document on the Virginia Cooperative Extension website- consult medical references for additional information:

Early heat illness or fainting - 

Signs and symptoms - dizziness, fatigue and irritability; difficulty concentrating or making decisions 

Cause - reduced blood flow to brain 

Treatments - drink water; loosen clothes; rest in shade 

Heat cramps - 

Signs and symptoms - painful arm, leg or stomach muscle spasms; thirst and heavy sweating; (may not occur until after gardening activities) 

Cause - body salt loss due to sweating 

Treatments - drink water, and avoid drinks with alcohol or caffeine; remove hat and loosen clothes; rest; lightly stretch muscles in a cool location 

Heat rash ("prickly heat") - 

Signs and symptoms - pricking sensation and tiny, blister-like red skin spots usually on body areas covered by clothes

Cause - plugged and inflamed sweat glands 

Treatments - wear loose clothes; wash skin; apply talcum powder 

Heat exhaustion - 

Signs and symptoms - early heat illness signs, plus: loss of coordination; collapse; heavy sweating; cool, moist, pale skin; dry mouth with excessive thirst; fast pulse; low to normal temperature

Causes - reduced blood circulation and flow to brain; dehydration 

Treatments - if conscious, give cool water to drink (do NOT give beverages containing caffeine or alcohol)-- make sure they drink slowly by giving a half glass of cool water every 15 minutes; rest lying down in a cooler, shaded area; loosen or remove clothing and hat; splash cold water on body and massage arms and legs 

Heat stroke - 

(May occur suddenly and is life-threatening. According to the American Red Cross. Follow the following recommendation.) 

Signs and symptoms - dizziness, confusion, headaches, irrational behavior, coma; reduced or no sweating; fast pulse; rapid breathing; convulsions, nausea, vomiting

Causes - dehydration; sustained exertion; reduced blood flow to brain, heart, etc.; body unable to cool itself; overexposure to high temperatures even without exertion

Treatments - call 911; move to shaded area; remove shoes and outer clothing, wrap in wet cloth/pour water on/fan rapidly; elevate legs; clear vomit to prevent choking; if victim refuses water, is vomiting, or there are changes in level of consciousness, do not give anything to eat or drink.

Eco-friendly gardeners say "Let me tell you about my garden critters"

While some people our age are walking around saying "Let me tell you about my grandchildren", my hubby and I are just as proud to brag about our cute "grand critters".

Since we began creating our eco-friendly landscape ten years ago, the critters are just as anxious to visit us as kids are to visit their super generous, gift-giving grandparents.

But rather than spoiling "the kids" with cell phones, new clothes and multi-media devices, our "babies" are content with a little food and a roof over their heads.

We built and hung this new nest box when we saw a screech owl hanging out in a larger nestbox we have on our property.

It only took THREE days before the little screecher found the box and moved right in.

We saw him (or her) hanging out at the box on and off for a few days and then didn't see him (or her) again for awhile.

So we were really surprised when, exactly two months after hanging the box, we saw two screech owl babies.

"The grand kids" only hung around a few days, and then they were gone, but it is SO much fun to hear them out there at night, calling to each other, and know that we played a part in helping to "raise them".

You don't really have to work that hard to attract wildlife to your eco-friendly landscape. Once you begin adding native plants and eliminating chemicals, the wildlife will find you. But below are ten tips to keep in mind if you want to share your landscape with the local wildlife. You can read the full post about creating wildlife friendly landscapes by following this link.

1) Choose plants that provide food for birds and wildlife.

2) Choose native plants.

3) Provide supplemental feeders.

4) Provide a water supply.

5) Provide shelter for wildlife.

6) Avoid chemicals in your landscape! Chemicals can harm wildlife as well as the insects that they eat.

7) Garden with care. Many birds and other creatures raise their young in low bushes and shrubs. Butterflies raise their young (caterpillars) on some of our favorite garden plants. Mow, prune and trim with caution to avoid critter catastrophes.

8 ) Keep wandering pets out of wildlife areas.

9) Provide Places to Raise Young.

10) Practice eco-friendly gardening. Everything you do in your landscape can have an effect on the overall health of the soil, air, water and habitat for native wildlife. Visit the Metro DC Lawn and Garden blog often to learn how to create a landscape that is healthy for you and for local wildlife.