Showing posts with label lawns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lawns. Show all posts

Monday, July 23, 2012

Take control of your irrigation system controller to help conserve water

If your home has an irrigation system, it is tempting to just set the controller for a regular schedule and assume that it is handling all of your lawn and garden watering for you.

But the recent edition of the EPA Watersense newsletter has some great tips to ensure that homeowners don’t allow their irrigation systems to waste water.

Here are some TIPS to make sure that you keep the upper hand when it comes to controlling your watering:

1) Get to know your controllers: Kathy Nguyen, a 2011 WaterSense Promotional Partner of the Year, recommends that homeowners spend  time getting to know their irrigation systems this summer. For example, those with an automatic irrigation system should know how to turn it on and off.

“What has consistently saved the most water is when customers turn their automatic irrigation controllers on and off manually. Then, they are more apt to be involved in evaluating whether their landscape needs watering,” she says.

2) Spy on Your Sprinklers : Home and business owners should watch their sprinkler system run through each watering zone at least once to see how much concrete is inadvertently being watered. Systems that run overnight or at other times when users are not present can apply water to pavement that then evaporates before the user returns to the site.

3) Give Your Grass the Step Test:  Even if you don’t have an irrigation system for your yard, you can take steps to save water and improve your lawn’s health and beauty. Grass doesn’t always need water just because it’s hot out, Nguyen notes. Step on the lawn, and if the grass springs back, it doesn’t need water. She recommends performing this “step test” in the early morning or late evening to get the most realistic view.

Learn additional ways to save on your summer water bill, while enjoying a landscape that’s both beautiful and convenient.

Current Summer 2012 | WaterSense | US EPA

Monday, June 25, 2012

Eco-Friendly Gardening Helps you Beat the Heat

Last year, I wrote a post entitled "Eco-Friendly Gardens are No Sweat". In it, I mentioned how many of the actions that make a garden eco-friendly, such as incorporating native plants or using mulch to conserve water,  also end up requiring less work. This means that when others are out dragging around hoses to keep their landscape alive, we can be relaxing in our hammocks, deciding what we want to plant next.

I recently saw an article on Consumer Reports .org entitled The Slackers Guide to Lawn Care which goes a step further. Not only does it list many of the same eco-friendly items that I had in my "No Sweat" post, but it also lists how many hours you can save, annually, by adopting these "green" landscaping practices.

I'm using their estimates for annual time saved to repeat some info I've had in previous posts.  Most of the info is from our post, 10 Tips for a Green, Eco-Friendly Lawn. Be sure and jump over to the Consumer Report website and read their great, information packed post:
  • Save up to 12 hours annually by letting the lawn go brown during dry spellsWater Efficiently – The amount of water that your lawn needs will depend on the grass species and weather conditions. But remember, overwatering can often do more damage than under watering, to both the grass itself and to the local environment. In general, applying one inch of water per week is the recommendation when there is insufficient rainfall during the spring and summer.The best rule is to water only when the lawn begins to wilt from dryness –– when the color dulls and compressed footprints stay visible when you walk across your grass.
  • Save up to 8 hours annually by fertilizing less frequently - Fertilize in the Fall for a Healthy Lawn and Community - Before you fertilize, test your soil to learn what, if anything, it needs. Applying too much fertilizer can damage the lawn and is a major source of water pollution. Contrary to popular practice, spring is not the time to fertilize your lawn. Fertilizing in the spring forces energy into the blades rather than the developing roots. This can lead to disease and insect problems later in the season. It will also require more frequent mowing. Fall is the best time to fertilize, when the roots that will sustain the plants through the following summer are actively growing. Slow-acting, organic fertilizer products are available which are kinder to your landscape and to the surrounding environment.
  • Save up to 10 hours annually by mowing less often - Follow the “1/3rd rule” of mowing – Lawn experts recommend that you shouldn’t remove more than 1/3rd of the leaf blade when you mow. Removing too much of the foliage while mowing shocks the grass, forcing it to redirect its food resources from roots and stems towards new leaves. That means that if you want to mow to a 3” height, you shouldn’t mow until your grass is 4.5” high.
  • Save up to 5 hours annually by learning to live with certain pests and weeds - . Practice Integrated Pest management – One of the first rules of eco-friendly gardening is, not all insects are bad. If you see insects in your lawn, take them to one of the local extension service offices for proper identification. Then, always select the least harmful form of insect control. Here is a list of IPM Specialists from the University of Maryland Extension.
  • Save up to 15 hours annually by leaving your grass clippings on the lawn rather than bagging -  Mulch lawn clippings for a healthy lawn – When you mow your grass, leave the grass clippings where they lay. Grass clippings provide free, natural nutrients for your lawn, reducing the need for supplemental fertilizers or the labor intensive chore of bagging and removing lawn waste. Many mowers are outfitted with mulching attachments that chop clippings into fine pieces for quick breakdown. But if you follow the 1/3rd rule, you should never produce enough clippings to cause problems with your lawn.
  • Save up to 15 hours annually by choosing a low maintenance grass variety - Get to know your grass – As with everything in your landscape, it’s best to get to know as much as you can about the species that you are dealing with so that you can make the right choices in taking care of it. Whether you already have an established lawn or are putting in a new one, get to know your grass. Here’s a great document from the Virginia Cooperative Extension about Selecting Turfgrass.

The Slacker's Guide to a Great Lawn: Consumer Reports

10 Tips for a Green, Eco-Friendly Lawn: Metro DC Lawn and Garden

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Nibbles from an Article on Feeding the Soil

soil   I found a great article online recently that I would like to share. It is called Feeding the Soil Builds Sustainable Lawns and it was written by Karen Fitzgerald.
The article is chock full of great “green” gardening information, from start to finish, so I encourage you to devour the whole thing. Here are a few nibbles from the article to whet your appetite for more:
“Spraying chemical fertilizers and pesticides on lawns is like giving kids junk food, says landscape designer Cathy Bilow. They’ll be invigorated for a while, but eventually they’ll crash and burn….

A sustainable lawn is one that thrives with as little inputs and labor as possible. It is better for the environment, not only because it lessens chemicals going in the ground, but it also reduces carbon emissions from mowing and supports bees, butterflies and other wildlife….

… the key to a sustainable lawn is cultivating healthy soil. “When soil is healthy, plants will thrive, and thriving plants are more tolerant of disease and drought,” she said. Instead of killing soil bacteria, insects and earthworms, we should be nourishing them with compost….

One cup of soil contains as many bacteria as people on the planet, she said….

One of the easiest ways to feed microbes is to leave mowed grass on the lawn, preferably mulched by your lawnmower to decompose faster….
A cubic yard of compost applied annually is all that is needed to fertilize a thousand square feet of soil….

Weeds will begin to move out on their own once the soil is vibrant enough to support lush growth…
Grass should be mowed at the highest setting to discourage weeds, and there should be enough room in the soil to permit the flow of air and water.

In designing a sustainable landscape, the goal is to replace as much lawn as possible with native plantings…
Bilow suggests adding a rain garden to the landscape to manage water flow and prevent soil erosion…”
As I said, those are little nibbles from a great, worthwhile article. I encourage you to read the whole thing.
And visit our new Topic Index page to find more posts about these topics on this blog.

Monday, May 7, 2012

Information about Soils & Landscapes from Green Builder Magazine

greenbuilder The March 2012 issue of Green Builder Magazine is dedicated to Soils & Landscaping and it has all sorts of interesting information in it that pertains to everyone who likes to garden and play in the dirt, not just those who build homes on it. The whole magazine is available online (see link below), but here are some of the highlights.

The first article of interest is called “The Secrets of Soil”, by Matthew Power. The teaser paragraph says “Abused, misunderstood, poisoned and taken for granted, soils deserve better. They’re essential to life, more complex than you can imagine, and in serious need of stewardship.”

Here are some  excerpts from that article: “$820 million has been spent trying to probe the surface of Mars with the last two rovers, ‘vastly exceeding what has been spent exploring the soil beneath our feet.’”

“A single spade of healthy garden soil …may harbor more species than the entire Amazon nurtures above ground. Two thirds of the Earth’s biological diversity lives in its terrestrial soils and underwater sediments.”


Several places in the magazine, I saw it mentioned that “observing which weeds grow is a highly efficient way of identifying what soils are lacking.” They refer to a book entitled “Weeds and Why they Grow”, by Jay McCaman

Here’s another quote from the issue, in an article called “The Edible Landscape” by Teresa Watkins. “…the time is right to include edible landscaping in every new home master plan or landscape makeover.”

The issue also includes information about rainwater harvesting and smart irrigation.

Ron Jones, the President of Green Builder Media, shares these grim statistics in his “From the Tailgate” column:

  • American lawns cover more than 40,000 square miles
  • As a nation, we spend $28.9 billion yearly on lawns
  • We use 3 times as much synthetic pesticide on our lawns as we do per acre of agricultural crops – about 67 million pounds annually
  • 54 million Americans mow their lawns each weekend, using 800 million gallons of gas per year and producing tons of air pollutants
  • 17 million gallons of fuel, mostly gasoline, are spilled each year while refueling lawn equipment
  • roughly 10,000 gallons of water is used each summer for each 1,000 square feet of lawn

The issue also has a lot of great graphics and charts and is definitely worth reading. Here is the link to read the full issue: Green Builder Magazine March 2012

Thursday, May 3, 2012

Tips for lawn mowing

Here’s another great EPA video I found that goes along great with our new page, Tips for “Green” Eco-Friendly lawn care.

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Now is a good time to start your fertilizer diet

Fertbagno My poll question on the blog and our Facebook page this month is about fertilizer, specifically: What time of the year do you apply fertilizer to your lawn? After you take a few moment to add your answer to the poll, you can see what horticulture experts recommend by visiting our page, “10 Tips for a “Green”, Eco-Friendly Lawn”

Fertilizer is “in the news” in the area recently because of the Fertilizer Use Act of 2011 for Maryland, which limits the amount of nitrogen and phosphorus that may be contained in lawn fertilizer products and  also puts restrictions on how and when homeowners and lawn care professionals can apply these products.

Although the Maryland law will not officially go into effect until October 1, 2013, Maryland State Agriculture Secretary Buddy Vance is encouraging homeowners to start implementing these changes now.

"According to our state chemist here at the Maryland Department of Agriculture, about 44 percent of the fertilizer sold in the state of Maryland is applied to lawns - that's a pretty amazing factoid," Maryland Agriculture Secretary Buddy Hance said during a press conference Monday. "Everybody assumes that agriculture is the biggest user, but lawns use almost as much fertilizer."

One of the main changes from the Fertilizer Use Act will be the amount of nitrogen and phosphorous that is contained in fertilizer.

Nitrogen and phosphorus are key ingredients in lawn fertilizer, but can be harmful if used in excess. When it rains, these nutrients can wash into local waterways and eventually into the Chesapeake Bay where they can fuel the growth of algae blooms and threaten underwater life.

Jon Traunfeld, director of the University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center, suggests that homeowners get their soil tested to determine the exact fertilizer needs of their lawn and also suggested that homeowners use compost to supply these needs.

For More Information: Maryland’s Lawn Fertilizer Law
And here is a link to a similar fertilizer law for Virginia : Virginia’s Fertilizer Law
And here’s the link again to our post: 10 Tips for a “Green”, eco-friendly Lawn

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

National Arboretum Planning Turf Exhibit

Many eco-friendly gardeners think that turf grass is a bad thing. The truth, of course, isn’t that the GRASS is bad. What can be bad, and detrimental to the environment, are the actions that people take to keep their turf grass green, manicured and healthy looking.

People often over-water their lawns and apply dangerous chemicals to help keep the grass green. They can also pollute the environment by over mowing and trimming.

So I think it is great that the National Arboretum is planning an exhibit to teach people about the benefits of turf grass, along with proper maintenance techniques.

The theme of the exhibit is: New developments in turfgrass-making and environmental choice for our homes and communities and will be arranged in three sub-themes:

Turf and the Environment - Proper maintenance practices, pest/weed control, seasonal issues, water quality, erosion control benefits, research

Turf in the Landscape - Why turf? Grass species, soils, landscape &turf cooling/other benefits, ecosystem services, home values

Turf in the Community - Urbanization, recreation needs, functionality, safety/human health/obesity issues, value of turf industry/jobs

The National Arboretum is currently raising money for the conceptual design phase. The goal is to install the exhibit for an opening by spring 2013. Plans are to continue the exhibit through 2016 or 2017.
For more information, here is a pdf file of the proposal.

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Plans for the weekend – lessen the lawn

It looks like we are going to have beautiful weather for getting outside and working in the yard today. And one of the main things on my garden to-do list is to remove some more lawn to make another garden area.

It’s a little bit of hard labor, but it’s still cool enough outside to make the work bearable. And the environmental benefits (plus having more garden area in the part of our yard that gets the most sun) will be well worth it.

Here are some of the eco-friendly benefits of reduced lawn area:
  1. Reduced water consumption – turf generally requires more water than plants which are properly chosen for your site’s conditions.
  2. Reduced storm water runoff -  shrubs, trees, and other leafy plants help absorb, intercept, and slow down rainfall, thereby reducing storm water runoff.
  3. Reduced labor – less time spent on lawn maintenance.
  4. Reduced need for chemicals – more homeowners use chemicals greening and feeding their lawns than on properly selected plant species.
  5. Reduced  air and noise pollution caused by gas mowers, edgers, blowers, etc.
  6. Enhanced biodiversity – replacing lawns with shrubs and flowers provide shelter and food sources for birds, butterflies and other local wildlife.

Monday, October 17, 2011

Fall Lawn Care

I have to admit, that we don't do much to maintain our lawn. We don't really have a lot of it, and we prefer to put up with a few weeds rather going through the time and money of adding things to try to kill the weeds or green up the grass.

But for those of you who like a lush, green lawn, here are some:

Tips for Fall Lawn Care

1. First, decide if you want to keep the same amount of lawn - Today, more and more eco-minded gardeners are deciding to cut back or cut out their lawn, all together. Groundcovers, larger garden beds, rain gardens, wild flower gardens or vegetable gardens are all good alternatives for water hogging, fertilizer intensive lawns. For more ideas about replacing your lawn, visit www.lawnreform.org . If you decide to keep some or all of your lawn, keep reading.  
2. Get to know your grassAs with everything in your landscape, it’s best to get to know as much as you can about the species that you are dealing with so that you can make the right choices in taking care of it. Whether you already have an established lawn or are putting in a new one, get to know your grass. Turfgrasses that provide winter lawn color in the area are known as cool-season grasses. Grasses which go dormant after the first hard frost, and stay brown through the winter months are known as warm-season grasses. Your choice of grass species will affect how you mow and maintain your lawn. Selecting turfgrass.
3. Get your soil tested - If you have determined that you have cool season grass, fall is the optimal time to fertilize. A soil test can let you know what nutrients are missing from you lawn which will allow you to apply the proper amount of lime and fertilizer, minimizing the water polluting nutrient runoff which can be caused by overfertilization.  
4. Use proper fertilizer - If you decide you need to apply fertilizer, choose one that contains at least 30 percent slow-release nitrogen. Also, check the three numbers on the front of the bag to select the right mixture for your lawn's current needs, as determined by the soil test. The numbers represent the fertilizer's nitrogen (first number), phosphorus (second number) and potassium (third number). Using high nitrogen fertilizer on a lawn that does not need it is a waste of money and will eventually be washed away by storm water if not used by the plant.
5. Seed to fill in bald spots - Fall is a good time to plant cool-season grasses such as bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass. Laying down sod is also good for this time of year, but sod is much more flexible in timing, so it can be done almost any time the soil is not frozen. To apply seed, first prepare the soil by breaking it up with an aerator or hard rake. After aeration, top-dress the lawn with 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick layer of organic matter. Then apply the seed. The seed should be misted once or twice a day (not heavily watered) until germination, especially in a dry fall. Don't allow autumn leaves to pile up and mat on seedling lawns.  
6. Keep it on the lawn - Whether you are fertilizing, seeding or just dealing with fallen leaves, make sure you keep them on the lawn and out of stormwater drains. Avoid fertilizer applications if weather forecasts call for heavy rainfall. And always take a few moments to sweep or blow any fertilizer that ends up on the street, sidewalk, or patio back into the turf. Any granular material on a hardscape is often only minutes away from entering our waterways during the next heavy rain.
For more information, visit the Virginia Cooperative Extension website and search on Fall Lawn Care

Friday, July 29, 2011

Eco-friendly gardens are "no-sweat"

Every summer at about this time, I sit back, relax with an ice-cold drink, and think about some of the added benefits of eco-friendly gardening. In many ways, eco-friendly landscapes require less work, meaning that I can have more of a “no-sweat” summer than some of my friends and neighbors with more labor-intensive landscapes.

Below are some great reasons to think about turning your traditional landscape into an eco-friendly, “no-sweat” one:
  1. Eco-friendly gardeners work WITH Mother Nature, not against her: choosing plants that fit the site means plants are better adapted to survive with minimal care, which means Mother Nature takes care of the plants, not you.
  2. Eco-friendly gardeners leave part of their landscape natural: Why tear out existing, native species only to replace them with more labor-intensive exotics? Native plants, which are present on a property, will require less work and will provide an immediate benefit to local wildlifespan>
  3. Eco-friendly gardeners plant trees with energy conservation in mind: Shade trees can significantly reduce air temperatures in and outdoors in the summer, as trees intercept and absorb the sun’s heat while transpiring cooling moisture into the air.
  4. Eco-friendly gardeners incorporate drought tolerant species, which means less work watering. Drought tolerant trees drought tolerant perennials
  5. Eco-friendly gardeners group plants by their care requirements : plants that do require extra water or fertilizer are all in one place, rather than scattered throughout the property.
  6. Eco friendly gardeners include beneficial plants: beneficial plants attract bugs and birds that help cut down on insect pest populations, eliminating the need to apply pesticides.
  7. Eco friendly gardeners have their soil tested to determine the right mix of fertilizer for their lawn rather than applying fertilizers that aren’t needed.
  8. Eco-friendly gardeners identify weeds and pests rather than spending time indiscriminately killing them all. Some bugs are good bugs. And a weed-free lawn is not necessarily a healthy one.
  9. Eco friendly gardeners replace lawn with ground covers : Most ground covers need little or no maintenance once they’re established.
  10. Eco friendly gardeners use plenty of mulch : adding mulch helps cut down on both weeding and watering
  11. If they do have lawn, eco-friendly gardeners mow less oftenMowing grass to the proper height is the single-most important thing you can do to improve the health of your lawn.
  12. Eco-friendly gardeners don’t rake their grass clippings : Leaving grass where it falls adds nutrients back to the soil. However, be sure to sweep up your sidewalk, driveway or street so clippings don't pollute nearby lakes or streams.
  13. Eco-friendly gardeners create compost : why lug bags of trash to the curb and bags of purchased soil enhancers to your landscape? Composting your yard and kitchen scraps saves time and money.
  14. Eco-friendly gardeners water less: Plants should be watered only when they begin to droop and in the early morning hours before 10 a.m. Grasses naturally grow slower in the summer, so brown grass usually means your lawn is just dormant, not dead.
  15. Eco-friendly gardeners use hardscapes creatively: Hardscapes, the landscaper’s term for paving and built features in a garden (think patios and walkways) reduce garden work and extend your home’s living space. Using permeable surfaces also allows water to percolate into the ground, rather than

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

I’m sorry Steve, but you just can’t have a sheep

I’m starting to think that my friend Steve REALLY likes sheep. Every now and then he sends me an idea for something to write about on my blog and it seems like a lot of the topics lately have pertained to sheep. Hmmmmm.

Mostly the articles talk about using sheep to maintain your lawn. Not only will these fluffy critters keep your lawn chewed down to a well-trimmed height, but they also provide instant fertilizer in the process.

The latest article he sent called Mow Your Lawn With Mother Nature’s Hungry Critters goes on to talk about the benefits of also using geese, cows and goats to keep things sheep shape…I mean ship shape…in the landscape.

A few weeks ago, he sent me an article about a school in Carlisle Pennsylvania that is using leased sheep to help keep the grass around their solar panels trimmed down. They are estimating that the sheep will save the school $15,000 a year in mowing costs, as well as cut down on air pollution.

Dan Ludwig a “grazing specialist” with the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Natural Resources Conservation Service based in Lebanon County, said that leasing animals for grazing on swaths of government and private land is a growing business.

“It’s gaining popularity, especially in orchards,” Ludwig said.

An old 2009 article in USA Today mentions that sheep have been used in many states (including Maryland) to help keep grass at manageable levels along roadways:

Carroll County, Md. This summer the Maryland State Highway Administration is renting a herd of goats and sheep to control invasive weeds in a wetland area. Spokesman Charlie Gischlar says using a 7,500-pound lawn mower in the area would embed ruts that could destroy the area’s hydrology and endanger the habitat of the Bog Turtle, a four-inch turtle that is listed as a threatened species.

So how does one go about renting a sheep? Or a goat? Or a chicken or goose or cow?

The articles Steve sent me listed several companies that rent sheep and goats. None of them listed any ruminants for hire in the DC, Virginia or Maryland areas. I even emailed the department of agriculture for both states asking if they knew where I could rent a sheep. I never received a reply from either department.

But Steve seemed to have his heart set on a sheep, so I kept looking.

My search led me to the Maryland Small Ruminant Page. They just happened to have a link to a page about Targeted Grazing which DOES list a company in Maryland where you can’t rent a sheep, but you can rent a goat, for targeted grazing.

From The Eco-Goats website:

It is easy to see that our roadsides, open fields, woodlands and backyards are becoming overrun with invasive species and other unwanted vegetation. Machines often can't get to problem areas, humans hands are very labor intensive, and herbicides are dangerous to our waterways, soil, and desired vegetation, not to mention animals and humans. 

Enter Eco-Goats! This sustainable alternative is fast, easy, effective, environmentally sound and just plan fun.

"This use of goats for targeted grazing serves as a role model for other parks and sends a strong conservation message to the community. Goats provide a unique opportunity to move toward economical, sustainable and ecological weed control and away from methods relying on the use of heavy equipment or herbicides... In this tight budget time, it is always helpful to find creative solutions and leverage partnerships. The goats are a welcome sight to help us out and also give area children a chance to come enjoy them along with the park." 

-- John R. Leopold, Anne Arundel County Executive 

If left alone, invasive plants take over our woodlands, strangling valuable trees and threatening important diversity. Open grasslands and neighborhood backyards become overrun, creating a loss in farming productivity, habitat for birds and other wildlife, and enjoyment of outdoor space. 

Enter Eco-Goats! 

When it comes to clearing unwanted vegetation, goats can provide an ideal alternative to machines and herbicides. They graze in places that mowers can't reach and humans don't want to go (yes, they love Poison Ivy). In fact, goats eat a wide range of unwanted vegetation, which on the East Cost include Kudzu, Oriental Bittersweet, Ailanthus, Multiflora Rose, Japanese Honeysuckle, Mile-A-Minute and more.?

Wow! They eat invasive plant species (eliminating the need for chemical weed control) , provide their own fertilizer (eliminating the need for chemical fertilizer) and mow lawns without the fumes and other problems created by lawn mowers. NOW I see why Steve likes sheep. And goats, too. What eco-friendly gardener wouldn't!

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Mowing high helps save the Bay - and you can help prove it

The University of Maryland needs your help in their Mow Right – Mowing Height Field Study.

The purpose of this study is to measure the adoption of a single lawn care practice: correct mowing height (3 inches or highest setting).  This is the single most critical practice that homeowners need to do correctly to have a healthy lawn. All lawn best management practices hinge on proper mowing.  Many university studies have shown that mowing at 3 inches prevents weed problems, puts less stress on the grass, contributes to a healthy root system and drought resistance. Since it also provides  better resistance to insects and diseases, and helps prevent run-off  of soil, fertilizers, chemicals, and pollutants, maintaining proper mowing height also helps protect the Chesapeake Bay from pollution from runoff.

This study is a regional effort among participants from University of Maryland Extension, Cornell Cooperative Extension, Penn State Extension, Audubon International and its members, and large and small lawn care companies. It is our goal to achieve widespread adoption of the 3 inch mowing height across the region.

Why mow at 3 inches?
  • It has been widely documented that three inches is the ideal mowing height for residential turf across the country. 
  • Low and infrequent mowing may be the major cause of lawn deterioration.
  • It is best to remove no more than 1/3 of the grass blade each time you mow.
  • Mowing to the proper height can reduce weed problems by as much as 50 to 80%.
  • Sharpen or replace mower blades at least once a year or more frequently if needed.
  • Leave grass clippings on the lawn. It is a way to recycle nutrients.
For more information, visit the Growing Green Lawns website.

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Eco-Friendly Tips for the Summer Landscape

I thought this great scarecrow that my friends Jim and Glennie Duke made was a fitting illustration for my first day of summer post.

Jim and Glennie also created the cute scarecrow couple in my post about Scarecrows and Other Natural Bird Control.

For Summer tips, I've chosen some from The University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center e-newsletter and added links to some of my previous articles on the subjects.

The entire Extension Center Newsletter can be downloaded here, in pdf format.









Tips for Summer Landscape Care
• Follow proper mowing techniques to help your lawn through the dog days of summer.

• For crabgrass and other summer weeds, try eco-friendly options for weed control or try some Zen weeding.

• Mid-August through mid-October is the best time to start new lawns and renovate or overseed existing lawns. Maryland Extension recommends a turf-type tall fescue cultivar at a rate of 4 lbs. of seed per 1,000 sq. ft. of area for overseeding, or 8 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. for new lawns. If your lawn area contains more than 50% weeds, consider a total lawn renovation. Newly seeded turf must be watered regularly. (HG 102) . Click here to learn more about Selecting Turfgrass. This post on the University of California website will allow you to find more detailed information on each species: Information about Turfgrass Species.

• Keep newly planted trees or shrubs well watered through dry weather this summer. Thoroughly soak the root ball every few days. A 2-3 inch layer of mulch is helpful. Keep mulch away from the trunk or stem.

• Attract beneficial insects to your landscape by planting a wide variety of flowering annuals and perennials that will bloom over the entire growing season. Good choices are plants in the following families: daisy (marigolds, daises, asters, mums), carrot (dill, fennel, anise, yarrow, parsley) and mint (all mints and thymes).

• Slugs are found on all types of flowering plants. Feeding damage ranges from just a few holes to the entire plant stripped of its foliage in a few nights. Slime trails are a definitive sign of slug activity. Trap with shallow pans of yeast added to water or beer, then discard. Diatomaceous earth, sharp sand or ground crab and oyster shell can also be applied around plants as physical barriers.

• Control weeds by laying down entire sections of newspaper covered with straw or last fall’s mulched leaves.

• Cut back herbs through the summer to keep plants bushy and productive. Essential oils are most concentrated right before bloom. Don’t fertilize herbs as it encourages succulent growth and dilutes essential oils.

• It’s time to begin thinking of fall vegetables. Plant broccoli and cauliflower seed in containers the 3rd to 4th week in June for transplanting into the ground mid July through mid August.

Earthworms are a sign of healthy soil and are normally seen in the greatest numbers in fall and spring. Adding organic matter in the form of composted leaves, manure, grass clippings, etc. will improve soil structure and attract earthworms.

• Select shredded pine bark or hardwood mulches, not wood chips, for use around your home to minimize the possibility of attracting termites. Avoid any mulches that contain chunks of wood.

• Summer is snake mating season, their most active time of year. Snakes are beneficial creatures and should not be harmed. The most likely encountered large snake is the Black Rat Snake. It can grow to be about 5 feet long and is found in both rural and suburban areas.

• Rabbits can be a destructive nuisance in flower and vegetable gardens, feeding on young and tender plants. They can be excluded with a low, 2 ft. high fence that is secured to the ground. You can also repel them with commercial repellents, bloodmeal, or by sprinkling hot pepper flakes around plants. Or, you can just accept them for the great organic weed control that they provide.

• Prevent deer from feeding on garden and landscape plants, by applying a repellent, such as “Deer-Away”, “Liquid Fence”, “Deer-Off”, “Hinder” or “Ro-Pel” to vulnerable plants. Polywire fencing connected to an inexpensive, solar-powered charger can successfully exclude groundhogs and deer.

• As the summer progresses and temperatures rise and rainfall decreases, cool season lawns usually become dormant. Dormancy is a normal plant response causing them to stop growing and turn brown. Established lawns will not die and watering is not recommended. Newly seeded or newly sodded areas will still need watering.

• Late crops of beans, beets, carrots, Swiss chard, and cucumbers can be direct sown through the end of July.

• Bare soil is very prone to erosion from summer thunder storms. Prevent this by covering the soil with mulch, groundcovers, or turf.

Mosquitoes are always a summer time nuisance at any outside activity. Reduce mosquito populations by eliminating standing water. Change bird bath water frequently, and empty buckets, lids, garden furniture and toys. The Asian tiger mosquito requires very little water for breeding. Back yard ponds stocked with fish or moving water (fountains or filters) should not contribute to a mosquito problem. However, to be certain, B.t. dunks can bin the pond for mosquito control.

• August is frequently dry. Water deeply by allowing water to soak the soil directly underneath and around newly planted trees and shrubs. Check the depth of water penetration into the soil by digging a small hole after watering. Hard-crusted mulch will repel water and needs to be broken up with a rake or hoe to help the rain and irrigation water to penetrate the soil.

• Late August through September is usually a good time to transplant, divide and plant perennials such as daylily, liriope, and Echinacea. Be sure to keep them well watered during dry periods. If hot, dry conditions persist wait to divide your perennials.

• Do not fertilize shade trees, fruit trees or shrubs in late summer. Fertilization in August is very likely to stimulate new growth at a time when plants are beginning to enter dormancy and could result in excessive winter damage.

• Many kinds of interesting invertebrates live in a compost pile including manure worms, centipedes, millipedes, pill bugs, and pseudoscorpions. They are part of the composting ecosystem and should be appreciated, not feared. Do not attempt to spray or otherwise kill these beneficial critters.

Ruby-throated hummingbirds continue to visit flowers and nectar feeders. Keep nectar feeders clean and change nectar solution frequently during hot weather to prevent spoiling.

Friday, June 17, 2011

Everything you need to know about eco-friendly lawn mowing

I actually enjoy mowing my lawn. We have a riding mower and a rather large piece of property so it's a very relaxing activity for me.

When we began trying to be more eco-friendly in our yard, I  had to make myself cut back on the number of times I mowed and raise the height of the blade. I just hadn't realized that things like that, as well as the sharpness of the mower blade, could make such a big difference in the health of the lawn…and the health of the planet. These actions even help you save water, because sharp mower blades result in less water loss from the grass. Taller grass also encourages a deeper, more extensive root system with increased drought tolerance, and  is also  more effective at shading out weeds in the landscape. And of course, healthier lawns require less chemicals to keep them looking good and green.

Depending on where you live in the Metro DC area and what grass you grow, you will probably mow your lawn 20-40 times a year. Here are some tips to make sure that you don’t do more harm than good when you are performing lawn maintenance:

1)    Get to know your grassAs with everything in your landscape, it’s best to get to know as much as you can about the species that you are dealing with so that you can make the right choices in taking care of it.  Whether you already have an established lawn or are putting in a new one, get to know your grass. Turfgrasses that provide winter lawn color in the area are known as cool-season grasses. Grasses which go dormant after the first hard frost, and stay brown through the winter months are known as warm-season grasses. Your choice of grass species will affect how you mow.  Selecting turfgrass , Turfgrass Species   <— Excellent information  with photos of grass species

2)   
Set mowing heights according to grass species  - Once you know what species you have, you can set your mower blade at the recommended height for your species.(See Turfgrass Species link above and check on Planting and Maintenance Tips). While there are some differences in tolerable cutting heights between the various species of warm and cool-season turfgrasses, a general rule of thumb is to clip them in the 2-3 inch range. Mowing tall promotes a deeper root system and improves turf competitions against crabgrass and other warm-season weeds. If your lawn has a white hue rather than a green color after you mow, it is a good bet that you are cutting too low.

3)    Keep blades sharp and balanced – The quickest way to improve lawn quality AND turf health is to keep your mower blade sharpened. A sharp blade will also improve mower fuel efficiency and extend mower engine life.  Blades should be sharpened at least three times per growing season: start the year off with a sharp blade, sharpen it again in late spring, and then once more in mid-late summer.

4)    Adjust mowing height for different seasons– For cool-season grasses, another tip that promotes summer health and performance is to raise the cutting height during the summer.  A higher mowing height in summer helps to cool the crowns of the turfgrass plants and provides more leaf area for photosynthesis during the stressful summer months. Taller cutting heights at these times help maintain the plant’s root system. On the other hand, warm-season grasses respond to mowing on the lower side of their recommended range in the summer by increasing in density.  Whereas fescues and bluegrasses thrive at mowing heights of 2-3 inches during the fall and early spring, for summer the best strategy is to mow at a 3-4 inch height (or even taller).  Raise the cutting deck to its highest setting when it needs clipping and don’t feel compelled to get the mower out at all if the grass is not growing.

5)    Mowing new lawns New lawns need time for their roots to become established before they can be mowed for the first time. For seeded lawns, it may take up to 2 months before they are ready to be mowed. Sod may be ready to be mowed within 2 to 3 weeks of planting. Three to six weeks are required for sprigs, stolons, and plugs to become established. For seeded lawns, wait for all of the seeds to germinate before mowing. For sod, sprigs, stolons, and plugs, make sure the roots are firmly planted in the soil before mowing to avoid tearing out new turf.  Follow these tips for new lawns: Be sure that the lawn is fairly dry before mowing so that you do not pull out any of your new lawn. As a general rule, you should let your lawn grow to about one-and-a-half times the recommended height before cutting so that you are cutting off no more than one-third of the height of your lawn at a time. For the first mow, you can let the lawn grow to the high end of the recommended range or even a little higher before cutting to give it a little more time to become established, but be sure to still only cut off one-third of the blade.

6)    Adjust mowing height for shady spots – For shady areas,  mow on the high side of the recommended range in order to maximize the plant’s leaf area.  Your lawn grasses will already be at a huge competitive disadvantage to the trees in regards to light, water, and nutrients, so it needs some special attention to maintain a canopy.

7)    Employ the “1/3rd rule” of mowing Lawn experts recommend that you shouldn’t remove more than 1/3rd of the leaf blade when you mow.  Removing too much of the foliage while mowing shocks the plant, forcing it to redirect its food resources from roots and stems towards new leaves. That means that if you want to mow to a 3” height, you shouldn’t mow until your grass is 4.5” high. To mow to a 2” height, you would wait until the grass is 3” high.

8)    Mowing very tall grass–If the lawn has gotten away from you, resist the temptation to scalp it in a single mowing event.  Instead, slowly drop the mowing height every 2-3 days while returning the turf to its ideal height.  This will maintain plant health and prevent you from having unsightly piles of clippings that not only look bad, but can also smother the turfgrass and create an environment that favors disease development. Grass clippings should be bagged or raked and removed when mowing grass that has grown too tall.

9)    Change your mowing pattern – Alternate your mowing pattern or direction each time the lawn is mowed.   Repeatedly mowing the lawn in the same direction pushes the grass over rather than cutting it cleanly. Also, different mowing patterns reduce soil compaction and wear from the mower wheels.

10) Grasscycle – Finally, return clippings as often as possible to your turf. Clippings are nothing more than organic fertilizer for your lawn, and if you follow the 1/3rd rule, you will never produce enough clippings to cause problems with your lawn.  You can reduce your turf’s fertility needs and help the environment by keeping your clippings in your lawn. NEVER blow your clippings into the street,where they can add to local stormwater pollution.

For More Information: Mow Like a Pro

Sources:  Virginia Cooperative Extension, University of California IPM

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Selected Winter Garden Tips

The Home and Garden Information Center of the University of Maryland puts out a great e-newsletter. Here are a few of the gardening tips that they list for January in the home landscape.

Lawns
• Hand pull winter annual weeds to keep them from going to seed this spring. Some common annual weeds include chickweed , henbit , and dead nettle . Here are more tips for eco-friendly weed control.
• Avoid excessive walking on your grass when it is frozen to avoid damaging the crowns of your grass plants.  

Woody Ornamental Tips
• Protect shrubs from winter winds by surrounding them with burlap or cardboard, or constructing small, solid windbreaks located 18 inches from the plant on the windward side.
• Try to prevent snow and ice from building up on gutters and eaves above shrubs. Gently sweep snow loads off of shrubs to prevent breakage.
• Prune damaged branches.  


Fruit
• Fall bearing raspberries can be cut down to the ground. The spent fruiting canes of June bearers can also be removed now.
• Consider covering your strawberry patch with a piece of floating row cover. This material can help prevent winter injury and promote early growth in the spring.  

Vegetables and Herbs
• Plan for spring seeding now. Check the germination rate of old, questionable seed (see newsletter to learn how)  

Fertilizer
• Keep all ice melting materials away from landscape plants. Do not attempt to melt ice with granular garden fertilizers.

Mulch
• If you have not mulched your garden, apply mulch now to perennial beds, trees and shrubs. This will help to protect plant crowns and shallow root systems from severe cold weather.

Wildlife
• Keep bird feeders and baths cleaned and replenished throughout the winter months.

For more tips from this excellent newsletter, download the winter edition here.

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Time to put your mower out to pasture?

America's love affair with their lawns is one of the biggest challenges when it comes to environmentally friendly landscapes. Lawns are water hogs and can have pests and weeds that are frequently treated with harmful chemicals. Using gas powered equipment to keep a lawn manicured can put out more CO2 and other pollutants (plus noise) per hour run time than a Hummer.

Eco-friendly options for landscapes can include minimizing the size of the lawn and replacing it with ground covers, gardens or permeable surfaces such as mulched beds and walkways.

For the lawn that you do keep, make sure that it is mowed correctly, with the blade set to about three inches. Mulching mowers allow the grass clippings to be returned to the grass to put the nutrients back into the landscape.

Before your lawn mower is put to bed for the winter, take a look at it and decide whether it is time to put it out to pasture all together and get a more eco-friendly option. A new lawn mower might be the perfect gift for a homeowner who is trying to be more eco-friendly in the landscape.

Eco-friendly options for lawn mowers include electric models, solar powered mowers, reel mowers and more.

If you decide to keep your old mower, remember that keeping your mower in good shape helps benefit the lawn. Here are some steps to help put your mower to bed for the winter: Service Mowers Now Before Springing them Into Action Next Season

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Landscape Hints from an Eco-Cool Remodel Tool


I found this really cool....I mean ECO-Cool...Remodel Tool through an article on Treehugger.com.

The Eco-Cool Remodel Tool is one of several green tools on the website for King County, Washington's Solid Waste Division's website.

This neat web-based Tool lets you select an area of a model green home to reveal ideas and tips for environmentally-friendly renovations.

Here are some of the tips listed when you select the landscape area of the drawing (I have provided some links to local, related articles):

Yard
Patios, walkways and paths
•Use permeable materials for patios, walkways and paths such as clay brick, rock or concrete pavers, broken concrete, recycled glass pavers, crushed rock, wood chips, nutshells, and tumbled recycled glass to help minimize runoff and flooding. Impermeable (non-porous) surfaces such as concrete patios and paths do not allow rainwater to naturally percolate into the soil.

Landscape
Designing your landscape to match its conditions, such as climate, shade and moisture levels will save you money and time, and will look natural and beautiful. Design your landscape so it requires minimal water and maintenance:

•Select native plant species. They are adapted to your area, many are drought-tolerant, and most do not need additional fertilizer.
•Certify your backyard as a Certified Wildlife Habitat through the National Wildlife Federation. Create a backyard habitat that will attract beautiful songbirds, butterflies, frogs, and other interesting wildlife for viewing from your very own window.
•Install water-wise or drought-resistant plants.
•Use pest- and disease-resistant plant varieties.
•Put the right plant in the right place (e.g. installing shade plants in the shade, not the sun)
•Use mulch to protect plants and conserve water.
•If your house is on top of a hill or other breezy location, plant trees or shrubs to block the prevailing wind. This will help reduce cold air infiltration.
Minimize the amount of lawn in your yard.

Irrigation systems
•Automatic sprinkler systems waste about 30 percent of the water they deliver. It is possible to design a landscape that minimizes the need for regular supplemental watering once the landscape is established.

Soaker hoses and drip irrigation are good alternatives to permanent in-ground irrigation systems. Soaker hoses are made from recycled plastic and are inexpensive. Drip irrigation systems apply water directly to the soil through tiny emitters so they allow for more precise watering to match the needs of specific plant types.

◦If you choose to install a permanent in-ground irrigation system, look for piping made from polyethylene, as opposed to PVC.
•Install a weather-based irrigation controller that automatically adjusts the watering schedule according to the weather.
•If your garden hose leaks at the spigot threads, try to install a rubber, round-edged washer instead of a flat-edged washer.

Rainwater harvest
You can minimize potable water use by storing roof rainwater for later use in the yard. Whichever system(s) you choose, you will be helping to reuse water that would normally go to waste in a storm drain. First, reduce your water consumption, then invest in harvesting systems.

•Water can be stored in rain barrels, cisterns or rain gardens.
•Cisterns are large tanks that can store hundreds to thousands of gallons of water, enough to significantly reduce or eliminate the need to use municipal water for landscape purposes.
•You can also put roof water directly to use in your yard with a rain garden. Rain gardens feature plants that thrive in wet conditions coupled with soils that allow safe ground percolations. Rain gardens must be carefully designed and located to avoid flooding.

Thursday, September 30, 2010

Is artificial grass "eco-friendly"? What about the wildlife?

I was just reading an article that I found online called 12 Ways to Make Yard Care More Eco-Friendly. I was reading down the list of items, which included things like collect rainwater, use a lawn moisture meter, don't hose down your sidewalk, and thinking that it was a pretty good list, until I got to number 9) which said "consider using synthetic grass." That's the one that made me go "hmmmmmm".

I don't really know anything about synthetic grass, so I did a little research before I decided to form any opinion. The first sentence that I found about synthetic grass was all I needed. It said "no mowing, no weeding, no chemicals, no bugs, no birds......" Oh UGH, UGH and double and triple UGH!

To me, one of the wonderful things about gardens and landscapes is the life that they support: the birds, the butterflies, the insects, the worms. As someone who loves to garden for wildlife, I spend a lot of time encouraging people to choose plants that attract birds and insects. The thought of choosing something for a landscape that has NO value for wildlife just goes against SOOO much I believe in. If you are going to use artificial grass, you might as well use plastic and silk flowers. And perhaps you could have an outdoor sound system with music that "simulates" the sounds of birds and other garden wildlife.

But what do you think? Do the benefits of using something that requires no chemicals or water out-weigh the fact that it also provides nothing for the native wildlife? My opinion is a definite "NO!"

OTHER than the synthetic grass comment, the rest of the article had some pretty good advice. Check it out!

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Train your dog, train your man, train your lawn?

I’m reading a book right now called What Shamu Taught Me About Life Love and Marriage by Amy Sutherland. The premise is that you should be able to train your husband (or anyone else, for that matter, by using techniques created by famous animal trainers. I’m not very far into the book, so for now, my husband isn’t coming when called or heeling very well when we go for a walk.

However, with drought conditions in effect for much of the D.C. area, I thought that now would be a good time to talk about the benefits of training your lawn.

Lawns and gardens can be water hogs. But experts agree that with proper training, most landscapes should be able to tolerate drought conditions with few problems.

Most lawns only need water up to two times a week in the spring and summer, less if it rains, and less in the fall and winter. The problem is that people start out watering incorrectly so they have to re-teach their lawns to use less water.

With drought conditions in affect for much of the area, now is the time to start re-training your landscape for less water. That means to ONLY water your lawn when it really needs it. According to the Virginia Cooperative Extension, you should water your lawn when it shows these signs of thirst:

A "thirsty" lawn turns from the normal green color to a purple-bluish color. In these areas the grass blades will not spring back if you walk across the lawn and your footprints will be visible. This is the first sign of "wilt" and indicates a need for water.

Here are some more landscape tips to consider during drought conditions.

Refrain from fertilizing – Fertilizing encourages new growth, and new growth is less drought-tolerant. If you do fertilize, use fertilizer with slow release nitrogen in it. If your goal is to improve grass color, try an iron application rather than fertilizer. Dull mower blades can also make your lawn look brown instead of green by shredding rather than cutting grass blades.

Reduce lawn areas– Since Lawn irrigation can account for more than 50 percent of total water use at residential and commercial locations, considering installing a pond, walkway, or larger garden beds in place of water-hogging turfgrass.

Irrigation Methods - Investigate the use of micro–irrigation for your plant beds. Micro-irrigation is more efficient way of distributing water directly to the base of plants without water loss from evaporation and wind drift. If you are in the market for a new irrigation system, find a reputable irrigation contractor who has experience with these systems. If you already have an irrigation system in place, many of the larger manufacturers now sell retrofit kits which will allow you to change specific irrigation zones over to micro-irrigation fittings.

Mulch. Add mulch to plant beds to reduce evaporation from soil and to moderate soil temperature, reducing stress on roots. Make sure to pull the mulch away from tree trunks and plant stems to leave a gap of an inch or two to discourage diseases and insects.

Amend the soil - To improve the water retaining capabilities of soil, considering adding several layers of top-soil or compost.

Weed – Keep weeds under control. Weeds steal water from plants.

Your plants and lawn may seem a little stressed as they adjust to their new watering schedule, but after a week or two, they should adapt and begin to flourish again.

For more information: Lawn Management During Heat and Drought and Watering the Lawn , both from Virginia Cooperative Extension

Or check out the Metro DC Lawn and Garden Blog's other posts on Waterwise Landscaping Techniques

Monday, August 2, 2010

Tips for Choosing an eco-friendly lawn care company

If you are one of the many home-owners who are too busy or just not interested in toiling in the soil and digging in the dirt, there are now companies that offer various forms of environmentally friendly lawn care service. These companies will help reduce the eco-footprint of your home by eliminating inappropriate and polluting landscape practices.

Of course, if you are not a gardener, it may be difficult for you to know what to look for in such a company.

To help find a good “green” lawn care company, you can print out our eco-friendly landscaping quiz and see how prospective landscapers do in answering the questions. If they get all the answers correct, it’s a pretty good bet that they will make the correct choices for your landscape.

For more detailed information, I consulted Catherine Zimmerman, a Metro DC area certified horticulturist and landscape designer. Catherine is accredited in organic land care through the Northeast Organic Farmers Association and has designed and taught a course in organic landscaping for the USDA Graduate School Horticulture program. Catherine is also the author of the new book Urban & Suburban Meadows, Bringing Meadowscaping to Big and Small Spaces.

Below are some comments and suggestions Catherine provided for selecting an environmentally friendly landscape company:

“My approach to the lawn is to reduce it as much as possible in favor of native plants,” Catherine said:

“Where lawn is needed or desired, I take the organic approach. Key things for homeowners to know are:

1) Chemical lawn support such as synthetic pesticides and fertilizers are harmful to the environment. We annually assault the earth with billions of pounds of these toxins and as a result we are losing native insect species, polluting waterways and putting our own, and especially, our children's health at risk.

2) Start with the soil. Any eco-friendly land care service will do a soil test to see what is needed, or not needed, on the site in terms of nutrients, pH adjustments and organic matter content. A healthy lawn will have high organic matter 5% or higher. High organic matter feeds critical soil organisms and helps hold moisture in the soil.

3) The lawn should be aerated. Grass performs poorly in compacted soil.

4) Mow high, 2 1/2-3" and leave the clippings to help raise soil organic matter. 

5) Pest control. Elimination of pesticides will help bring the site back into balance because we cannot target just one undesirable insect. We wipe out most insects with pesticide use. Unfortunately some insects, like aphids bounce back quicker because of their faster reproduction cycle than it's natural enemy the lady bug. 
So now we have a real problem. Best to let the bugs duke it out. Introduce biologic controls, like nematodes, if needed. 'If needed' is a very important concept. If a company is selling lots of applications, they are likely not eco-friendly."

A few more suggestions for choosing an eco-friendly lawn care or gardening service:
  • Remember that each landscape is different and that your yard does not necessarily need the same treatment as your neighbor's. This is particularly true when it comes to eco-friendly lawn care, which strives to work with the current site conditions, rather than against them. Prospective lawn care companies should take a thorough look at your property and site conditions before giving you an estimate of what work they think your yard requires.
  • Even the best lawns have weeds and pests. Ask what techniques the service provider intends to use to treat these problems. Eco-friendly companies should offer environmentally friendly options.
  • The best eco-friendly companies will ONLY treat weeds and bugs on an as-needed basis, rather than indiscrimatley applying broad range weed killers, fertilizers or pesticides. If pesticides or weed killers are going to be used on your lawn, find out what specific problems are being addressed and what products will be used.
  • Ask lawn mowing services whether they reset mower heights for different turfgrasses and at what height they will cut your lawn. They should know the correct height for your particular grass species. Also find out if they clean equipment between lawns. Mowers and other equipment can spread weed seeds and disease organisms if not cleaned properly.
The Northern Virginia Regional Commission has created a list of professional lawn care services in Northern Virginia who have signed the Water Quality Improvement Agreement with the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation (DCR). These companies offer their customers lawn care services to minimize pollution in order to protect our waterways while maintaining green and healthy lawns.

View the list of Green Lawn Care Companies in Northern Virginia.  

More Metro DC Area Eco-Friendly Landscape Companies
(these companies are listed to help in your selection of a lawn care company. Inclusion in this list does not indicate our endorsement)
  • Richard Landscaping, LLC. Owner Richard Bajana told me that their guiding principle is “keeping things simple. Like Catherine Zimmerman, Richard is credited through the Northeast Organic Farmers Association
  • My Organic Garden– provides organic vegetable gardens, fruit & berries to folks in lieu of lawns, so property owners can get a little more out of their yard. Vegetable gardens can produce food nine or more months a year in our area. A lawn can produce a lot of veggies or host a nice looking orchard of dwarf apple, peach, or pear fruit trees. To increase the eco-friendly aspect they focus on building great soil rather than pesticides, and utilize drip irrigation and mulching to minimize water usage.
  • Solar Mowing - a small local company that uses solar (and wind) energy to power cordless battery-powered mowers. The mowers are quiet and emit NO pollutants!
  • American Plant - a family-owned environmentally responsible garden center, provide superior plants, products, knowledge and services for our customers and community.
  • Bay Country Lawns – An organic lawn care company that offers a wide array of natural and organic based programs.
  • Green Harmony Design - strives to bring nature back into people's lives by creating memorable settings in private and public gardens
  • Lawn-Right: Naturally healthy lawns – Professional organic lawn maintenance
  • Matt's Habitats - Eco-friendly gardens, painting and more!

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