Monster Plant Could be Moving this Way

An article I read online in the Pocono Record this morning had this headline:

'Monster Plant' Could be Moving this Way

Excerpts from the article, which talks about a plant that is "so nasty, it will make your skin boil --- literally", note that this plant has already become established in Maryland and Virginia.

Look, but don't touch 

"Giant hogweed exudes a clear, watery sap that causes the skin to become photosensitive to ultraviolet radiation," said Don R. Robbins, weed control administrator for the Maryland Department of Agriculture. "Contact with the sap can result in severe burns, blisters and dermatitis, possibly leading to future complications, namely skin cancer."

The Michigan Department of Agriculture states: "This tall, majestic plant is a public health hazard because of its potential to cause severe skin irritation in susceptible people. Plant sap produces painful, burning blisters within 24 to 48 hours after contact. Plant juices also can produce painless red blotches that later develop into purplish or brownish scars that may persist for several years. For an adverse reaction to occur, the skin, contaminated with plant juices, must be moist (perspiration) and then exposed to sunlight. Some other plants are capable of causing this reaction, known as phytophotodermatitis."

Giant hogweed grows in a variety of habitats such as river bottomlands, roadsides, disturbed areas, lawns and gardens.

There are two large native plants that look like hogweed — purple angelica (Angelica atropurpurea) and cow parsnip (Heracleum lanatum); and one introduced species, poison hemlock (Conium maculatum). All these grow in the same habitats as giant hogweed.

Although this plant isn't new to the area (it was listed as the Invasive Species of the Month in Maryland back in 2003 and an Exotic Invasive of the Quarter in Virginia in the Winter 2011 issue of the Virginia Forest Landowner), the article is a good reminder that we should all become familiar with the problem plants and critters that live in our area.

What's wrong with this picture? Using paintball guns to kill weeds

I first saw this post a few days ago on the weather channel. (www.weather.com) It is about a new idea to use paintball guns to "shoot" herbicides with "sub-meter accuracy". Take a look (and listen) at this short video and see if your reaction is the same as mine.

Do you see and hear the wind, catching and carrying all of those dangerous herbicides into the air?

I tried to do a little online search to see if I could find out more information about this topic and strangley enough, the only discussions I found about it were on Paintball Forums, where at least one user (on pbnation.com) was astute enough to provide this comment:

Hopefully the herbicide in the ball isn't harmful to humans. Or am I the only one that sees a problem with being able to shoot poison from a paintball gun? It's bound to fall into some kid's hands at some point if it's released.

Permaculture Skills Workshops

Permaculture is all about learning to work WITH Mother Nature, not against her. This, of course, is the basis of all “green” gardening.

The Heathcote Community website defines permaculture as:

the conscious design of sustainable human habitats. The design process of permaculture offers practical ways to increase the abundance of natural systems and improve the efficiency of human activities. Rooted in the careful observation of the natural patterns characteristic of a particular site, permaculture applies techniques and principles from ecology, cooperative economics, appropriate technology, and sustainable agriculture with the wisdom of indigenous people to heal the earth and our selves. Permaculture is a powerful tool for redesigning our lives as well as our landscapes!

Permaculture is a system of designing ecologically inspired landscapes that integrate food production, water management, renewable energy and shelter which can help people live more sustainably and protect the Chesapeake Bay!

Heathcote Community offers workshops on many topics related to sustainability, cooperative living, and social justice. Several courses on permaculture are available on their summer schedule:

Sunday, July 31, 9 am – 12 pm

Soil and Water Management:  A Permaculture Perspective

This workshop will include a summary of the basics of soils–composition, texture, structure, and a few soil science basics–but will focus primarily on the practical aspects of soil management with a view to establishing and maintaining healthy, living soils as the basis for all life in our environment and as the medium for healthy plant growth and healthy human beings. This will connect directly with a discussion of proper water management for efficient, sustainable water use and enjoyment. The format will include brief lecture, a tour and discussion of relevant aspects of the gardens and other parts of the property, and a considerable hands-on component. This is about dirt, so come prepared to get dirty!

 Saturday, Aug 6, 9 am – 12 pm

Sustainable Plant Health Maintenance:  A Permaculture Perspective
 
This workshop will focus on strategies for enhancing and maintaining healthy crops of all kinds, including a review of relevant aspects of soil and water management, crop rotation, companion planting (including "guilds"), species and variety selection, foliar feeding, botanical and mineral sprays, sanitation, pruning, and more. Healthy plants for a healthy you!

 Saturday, Aug 13, 9 am – 12 pm

The Fall and Winter Garden:  A Permaculture Perspective
 
We will discuss and demonstrate selection of crops and various modes of crop protection for fall and winter gardening. We will discuss and where possible demonstrate the types of task and projects that can best be carried out during the cold seasons. We will show how preparation for next year's main growing season begins in late summer the previous year, followed directly by a discussion of multi-year crop planning. You should be able to get those delicious, healthy greens all through the year, and watch how your health improves!

Hosted by Heathcote Community and School of Living
21300 Heathcote Rd, Freeland, MD  21053

Tuition:  Sliding scale $20-$50 for each individual class. Or take all 3 classes for $50-$120!!

Registration is required. Register online by the Wednesday before each class by clicking this link:  http://www.heathcote.org/cms/content/registration-form-permaculture-skills-workshops

Heathcote will be having  more extensive, 72 hour permaculture training, beginning on September 10th.

Extreme heat makes garden chemicals more dangerous

Hot enough for you?

I always get a kick out of it when I go to a doctor and she asks me if I get hot flashes. Hello!! It's over 100 degrees outside. Who in the heck could tell if they were having a hot flash in this temperature!!

Anyway, it shouldn't be news to anyone that it's unbearbly hot outside. And yet, the heat is BIG news. Newspapers and news site around the globe (not just the U.S.) are talking about the heat in D.C.

This article on Forbes blog entitled Mr. Heat Comes to Washington seems to sum it up the best. No matter how hot it is across the rest of the country,  "Any weather anomaly in our nation’s capital acquires cosmic significance."

It's a good article with all sorts of interesting facts about heat records in the country, including tidbits about a scorcher in the 1930's that caused things like : "30 rattlesnakes ravaged a farm in Michigan, attacking turkeys for their blood."

I did learn a few things from these various articles, though, about how heat affects us, our gardens and the planet.

First, I read a post the other day about how 76-year-old Loretta Lynn had to be taken to the hospital for heat exhaustion because she was gardening in 100 degree heat. Loretta's quote was: "There ain't a tomato worth it." It reminded me of my mom, who used to garden well into her 80's. And it also reminded me of the importance of NOT overdoing it outside in this heat.

I also learned something new from an article called The Heat Dome Continues on NBC Washington. The article states that the heat combined with the air quality in the area, is making the air unhealthy to breathe, which can be made worse by applying lawn chemicals or lawn mowing. Although I can't imagine ANYONE trying to mow their lawn in this heat, there may be some people who might think applying lawn chemicals is a fairly non-strenuous garden activity.

Along with the heat and humidity, the region also has to deal with poor air quality. The breeze helped out Thursday, but it will not hang around for Friday, meteorologist Chuck Bell reported. A Code Red air quality alert will be in effect Friday. Everyone should limit strenuous outdoor activity because the air is unhealthy to breathe. Turn off as many lights and appliances as possible, don't drive if you don't have to, do not apply chemicals to your lawn or garden, and avoid mowing. 

The heat can affect lawn chemicals in other ways, too. A document on the Virginia Cooperative Extension website says that: "Temperature extremes can cause physical or chemical changes to pesticide products. Such changes may make the product ineffective and/or cause plant injury. Heat makes chemicals more volatile and unstable."

Just more good reasons to ditch the lawn chemicals and go green in your garden.

The only other new thing I learned from my heat-reading this morning was that potted plants and raised beds get hotter than plants in the ground. I found that info on the Virginia Cooperative Extension site. That sounds like something I should have already known but just in case you didn't know it either, I'll pass it on. Maybe the heat is affecting your brain the same way it is affecting mine!

More info: How to properly dispose of lawn chemicals.

Drop It While It’s Hot

During the summer, you might use four times the amount of water we use during other months. Your water bill likely reflects the demand for the extra water you need for your lawn and garden. There’s an inexpensive way to capture the free rainwater for when you need it most -- during periods of drought -- to water your lawn and garden.

You can cut your water bill by installing a rain barrel in your yard. It’s a consistent supply of clean and free water for outdoor use. Rain barrels can be purchased at your local hardware or garden supply store.

Better yet, many local government programs offer them at reduced prices.

For more information read, The Rain Barrel Response.

I’m sorry Steve, but you just can’t have a sheep

I’m starting to think that my friend Steve REALLY likes sheep. Every now and then he sends me an idea for something to write about on my blog and it seems like a lot of the topics lately have pertained to sheep. Hmmmmm.

Mostly the articles talk about using sheep to maintain your lawn. Not only will these fluffy critters keep your lawn chewed down to a well-trimmed height, but they also provide instant fertilizer in the process.

The latest article he sent called Mow Your Lawn With Mother Nature’s Hungry Critters goes on to talk about the benefits of also using geese, cows and goats to keep things sheep shape…I mean ship shape…in the landscape.

A few weeks ago, he sent me an article about a school in Carlisle Pennsylvania that is using leased sheep to help keep the grass around their solar panels trimmed down. They are estimating that the sheep will save the school $15,000 a year in mowing costs, as well as cut down on air pollution.

Dan Ludwig a “grazing specialist” with the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Natural Resources Conservation Service based in Lebanon County, said that leasing animals for grazing on swaths of government and private land is a growing business.

“It’s gaining popularity, especially in orchards,” Ludwig said.

An old 2009 article in USA Today mentions that sheep have been used in many states (including Maryland) to help keep grass at manageable levels along roadways:

Carroll County, Md. This summer the Maryland State Highway Administration is renting a herd of goats and sheep to control invasive weeds in a wetland area. Spokesman Charlie Gischlar says using a 7,500-pound lawn mower in the area would embed ruts that could destroy the area’s hydrology and endanger the habitat of the Bog Turtle, a four-inch turtle that is listed as a threatened species.

So how does one go about renting a sheep? Or a goat? Or a chicken or goose or cow?

The articles Steve sent me listed several companies that rent sheep and goats. None of them listed any ruminants for hire in the DC, Virginia or Maryland areas. I even emailed the department of agriculture for both states asking if they knew where I could rent a sheep. I never received a reply from either department.

But Steve seemed to have his heart set on a sheep, so I kept looking.

My search led me to the Maryland Small Ruminant Page. They just happened to have a link to a page about Targeted Grazing which DOES list a company in Maryland where you can’t rent a sheep, but you can rent a goat, for targeted grazing.

From The Eco-Goats website:

It is easy to see that our roadsides, open fields, woodlands and backyards are becoming overrun with invasive species and other unwanted vegetation. Machines often can't get to problem areas, humans hands are very labor intensive, and herbicides are dangerous to our waterways, soil, and desired vegetation, not to mention animals and humans. 

Enter Eco-Goats! This sustainable alternative is fast, easy, effective, environmentally sound and just plan fun.

"This use of goats for targeted grazing serves as a role model for other parks and sends a strong conservation message to the community. Goats provide a unique opportunity to move toward economical, sustainable and ecological weed control and away from methods relying on the use of heavy equipment or herbicides... In this tight budget time, it is always helpful to find creative solutions and leverage partnerships. The goats are a welcome sight to help us out and also give area children a chance to come enjoy them along with the park." 

-- John R. Leopold, Anne Arundel County Executive 

If left alone, invasive plants take over our woodlands, strangling valuable trees and threatening important diversity. Open grasslands and neighborhood backyards become overrun, creating a loss in farming productivity, habitat for birds and other wildlife, and enjoyment of outdoor space. 

Enter Eco-Goats! 

When it comes to clearing unwanted vegetation, goats can provide an ideal alternative to machines and herbicides. They graze in places that mowers can't reach and humans don't want to go (yes, they love Poison Ivy). In fact, goats eat a wide range of unwanted vegetation, which on the East Cost include Kudzu, Oriental Bittersweet, Ailanthus, Multiflora Rose, Japanese Honeysuckle, Mile-A-Minute and more.?

Wow! They eat invasive plant species (eliminating the need for chemical weed control) , provide their own fertilizer (eliminating the need for chemical fertilizer) and mow lawns without the fumes and other problems created by lawn mowers. NOW I see why Steve likes sheep. And goats, too. What eco-friendly gardener wouldn't!

Wildlife Gardening in Small Spaces - July 23rd

What: Wildlife Gardening in Small Spaces Workshop
When: Saturday, July 23rd, 1:00 pm
Where: Columbia Heights Recreation Center

This weekend the District Department of the Environment and Audubon MD/DC are hosting their last backyard wildlife habitat workshop of the summer.  The workshop will be at the Columbia Heights Recreation Center, and will include presentations on gardening with native plants, site selection, garden design and plant selection.  We will also be planting a wildlife garden with native flowers and shrubs.

Participants will receive:

• Live plants,
• A birdhouse kit,
• Bringing Nature Home, a book about wildlife gardening by Douglas Tallamy,
• “Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat, Chesapeake Bay Region”, a booklet from the US Fish & Wildlife Service,
• “Plant Invaders of Mid-Atlantic Natural Areas”, a booklet from the National Park Service,
• The Green DC Map,
• And various brochures on local wildlife from DDOE.

The workshop will begin at 1:00 pm on Saturday July 23 at Columbia Heights Recreation Center (1480 Girard Street NW).  This workshop is free.  Please register at http://ddoe.dc.gov/fisheries (click on backyard habitat education).  You will also find our schedule of autumn workshops on that website.

Organic Pest Control Methods - Explained

I recently had a post about Organic Pest Control which summed up the results of a survey conducted by Mother Earth Magazine asking gardeners across the country which methods of organic pest control they found the most effective.

Although I had heard of most of the methods of control mentioned in the article, I have to admit that I didn’t fully understand what some of them were. So today I am going to go into a little more detail describing the various types of organic pest control which were mentioned in the article, as well as a few others.

First, it is important to make sure that the insects you are trying to kill are actually bad bugs, and not good ones. If you aren’t sure of the identification of an insect, there are many sources listed in this post which can help you with your ID.

For more details about many of these methods, there is a great page on the Montgomery County Maryland website called Pesticide Alternatives.

Manual methods – things you can do:

1) Handpicking– This method of pest control means just what it says. You walk through your garden and remove the insects by hand. This method works well for large insects such as beetles and hornworms. Of course, you have to do something with the bug once you pluck it. If you don’t have chickens or ducks to feed them to (see number 9, below) then you can carry a small container of water and soap or isopropyl alcohol to drop the pests into.  The deceased insects can then be returned to the earth to provide garden nutrients.

2) Hose ‘em off – Similar to handpicking is spraying them off with a strong stream of water. This method should be used when you are watering, anyway, so you don’t waste water, and works, to some limited extent, for soft bodied insects such as aphids and spidermites. Be sure and spray the bottoms of the leaves, too.

3) Right Plant, Right Place– Plants will generally have more pest resistance, and be healthier in general, if they are grown in the right spot. Get to know your site conditions and choose plants accordingly.

4) Growing resistant varieties– Plant breeders are creating cultivars that are more resistant to pests and diseases all the time. Ask for these varieties when making your plant selections at local nurseries or through mail order catalogs. Keep in mind that, in general, native plants are often more resistant to native pest species.

5) Timed planting– You can avoid certain garden pests by planting when they aren’t around. Some pests lay eggs only at a certain times in the spring. Planting to avoid these times can help avoid the pest.

6) Companion planting – Companion plants in your flower and vegetable garden will attract beneficial and predatory insects to your plants—while repelling unwanted garden thugs. For example, marigolds repel nematodes; mints (potted to prevent overgrowth)  repel cabbage pests and aphids; rue deters Japanese beetles; sweet basil controls tomato hornworm, repels aphids, mosquitoes, mites and acts as a natural fungicide and slows the growth of milkweed bugs (and don't forget pesto!); tansy used as a green mulch can repel cucumber beetles, Japanese beetles, ants, squash bugs. Chrysanthemums, chives, onions and garlic repel many pests, so plant them near your vegetable crops.

7) Crop rotation – From season to season, plant different crop species in the same location. This will help you discourage pests which were attracted to the first crop and keep pest populations from building up.

Chemical controls – things you apply

8) Insecticidal soap– Insecticidal soaps work by penetrating  the insect’s outer layer (cuticle) and dehydrating them and is useful for soft-bodied insects such as aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies. Although insecticidal soaps are more eco-friendly than harsher chemicals (they are non-toxic to humans and test animals and they biodegrade rapidly in the soil) there are some things to keep in mind. First, all soaps have phytotoxic properties, so you should test them on a few leaves before spraying an entire plant.  They will also kill many beneficial insects so make sure you know which insects you are spraying. Insecticidal soaps can be purchased at many garden supply stores now or you can make your own.

9) Horticultural oil – Horticultural oils work by smothering pests and their eggs, and may also have some repellent properties. Superior oil products control a wide variety of insects while going easy on beneficial insects. You can purchase horticultural oil or make your own.

10) Bt (Bacillus thuringiens),is a microbial biological control method which works on various larval insect pests. Bt is applied to the plant, where it is ingested by the caterpillar, which is  poisoned, paralyzed and eventually dies. Bt will not harm the majority of beneficial insects in your garden. However, it will kill butterfly larvae, which of course, are caterpillars. Bt can be purchased under many brand names.

11) Neem– (also known as azadirachtin) is an insecticide extracted from  seeds of the neem tree. Neem works as a broad-spectrum repellent, growth regulator,and insect poison. It discourages feeding  by making plants unpalatable to insects. If they eat the treated plant anyway, it inhibits their ability to lay eggs. Neem works on a wide range of insects, however, caution should be used. It is described as being ALMOST non-toxic to mammals and beneficial insects, but should not be used on food plants.

12) Garlic-oil spray-  Garlic oil kills insects, but not selectively, so it will kill the good bugs as well as the bad bugs. It works well on aphids, squash bugs, whiteflies and other insects.

13) Diatomaceous earth– Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a nonselective, abrasive dust commonly used to kill pests in the home and garden. It works by physical rather than chemical action. DE is the fossilized silica shells of algae called diatoms, which are covered with sharp needlelike projections that penetrate an insects cuticle, causing the insect to die of dehydration. You can dust plants and soil with DE to control crawling pests like slugs and snails, aphids, caterpillars and other insects. DE is considered nontoxic to mammals, but can irritate mucous membranes, so a dust mask should be worn while applying it. .

14) Milky spore disease – This product kills grubs of Japanese beetles and other related beetles but is harmless to other organisms.

Call out the critters – Beneficial animals and insects

15) Beneficial insects – Beneficial insects are good bugs that eat bad bugs, and include ladybugs, green lacewings, parasitic wasps and others. You can garden to attract beneficial insects  or you can purchase them from garden supply stores. For more information, see:  Lady Bugs

16) Beneficial birds – Many birds (including hummingbirds) also eat garden pests. Gardening to attract birds will bring you a beautiful natural form of pest control that will sing for its supper. Read: 10 Tips for a Wildlife Friendly Garden and Gardening for Hummingbirds

17) Poultry predation– Apparently, chickens and ducks love things like grubs, hornworms and other meaty garden pests. If you have the time and space to raise poultry, this sounds like a fun,  eco-friendly solution.

18) Beneficial nematodes, Beneficial nematodes are underground pest hunters that control over 250 different species of insects that spend some part of their lives underground. They are a very efficient organic insect control method and kill most insects before they become adults. This includes lots of common lawn and garden pests such as grubs, fleas, mole crickets, Japanese beetles and weevils.

Using barriers

19) Floating row covers – Floating row covers are lengths of fabric  which are lightly draped on plant foliage, creating barriers from pests. They let in more than 80% of the sunlight, as well as the rain and other irrigation. Covers must be draped loosely to allow for plant growth, but secured at the bottom to prevent intruders.

20) Rigid collars – For the plants, not the insects. Collars can be made of cardboard, plastic or metal cans, open at both ends and placed around the plants. These work for some cutworms, but not climbing cutworms.

Many of these products can be purchased online or at your favorite nursery or hardware store.

**The source for much of this material came from two  books from our home bookshelf:  Rodale's Chemical-Free Yard & Garden and The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control.

Here are some other great resources for the Metro DC Area:

Pesticide Alternatives – Montgomery County Maryland website
Try Pesticide Alternatives (pdf file) – Maryland Department of Agriculture
Minimum Chemical Gardening – Virginia Cooperative Extension

Urban Water Quality: Community-Based Solutions Seminar - July 21st

What: Urban Water Quality – Community-Based Solutions Seminar
When: July 21st, 9:00 am – 12:00 noon (Lunch afterwards)
Where: George Mason University Fairfax Campus – Meese Conference Room, Mason Hall

Urban stormwater pollution harms our rivers, lakes, and streams, but local efforts can make a difference. Take the opportunity to participate in a dialogue about water quality in our community. Discussions will focus on stormwater management techniques, urban landscape management practices, homeowner education and engagement, and the connection of these practices to water quality.

Join us to collaborate on education and outreach solutions to improve and protect our valuable community water resources.

RSVP: Online registration including full agenda or phone 804-644-0283

Organic Pest Control - What Works, What Doesn't? Mother Earth asks her Gardeners

As green gardeners, we always try to find an eco-friendly, non-polluting way to handle the pests that show up in our gardens. We know that any chemicals we apply may find their way into the groundwater and eventually our waterways. And certainly when it comes to growing food we are going to eat, we don't want to apply anything that could add any poisons.

So I was excited to see an article in a recent issue of Mother Earth News Magazine called Organic Pest Control: What Works, What Doesn't.

Last year, Mother Earth News launded an Organic Pest Control Survey, asking readers what works and what doesn't in the eco-friendly battle against the vile villians that infiltrate our vegetable gardens. About 1,300 gardeners from across North America responded, providing new, region-specific insight into organic pest control.

Here are some of the methods that were provided for dealing with garden pests, details of which can be read in the full article:

1. Aphid:Insecticidal soap, attracting beneficials, horticultural oil
2. Armyworm:Bt (Bacillus thuringiens), handpicking, row covers
3. Asparagus beetle:Poultry predation, neem, handpicking
4. Blister beetle:Poultry predation, neem, handpicking
5. Cabbage root maggot:Crop rotation, beneficial nematodes, diatomaceous earth
6. Cabbageworm:Bt, handpicking, row covers
7. Carrot rust fly:Crop rotation, beneficial nematodes, diatomaceous earth
8. Colorado potato beetle:Poultry predation, neem, handpicking
9. Corn earworm:Bt, horticultural oil, beneficial nematodes
10. Cucumber beetle:Poultry predation, neem, handpicking
11. Cutworm:Rigid collars, Bt, diatomaceous earth
12. Flea beetle: Insecticidal soap, garlic-pepper spray, row covers
13. Harlequin bug:Handpicking, good garden sanitation, neem
14. Japanese beetle: Handpicking, row covers, milky spore disease
15. Mexican bean beetle:Poultry predation, neem, handpicking
16. Onion root maggot:Crop rotation, beneficial nematodes, diatomaceous earth
17. Slugs:Handpicking, iron phosphate slug bait, diatomaceous earth
18. Snails:Handpicking, iron phosphate slug bait, diatomaceous earth
19. Squash bug:Handpicking, good garden sanitation, neem
20. Squash vine borer: Growing resistant varieties, crop rotation, beneficial nematodes
21. Stink bug:Handpicking, good garden sanitation, neem
22. Tarnished plant bug:Handpicking, good garden sanitation, neem
23. Tomato hornworm: Bt, handpicking, row covers
24. Whitefly:Insecticidal soap, attracting beneficials, horticultural oil

There were many additional comments added by the respondees, including things like: "Plant more than you can use", garden to attract beneficial insects, and garden to attract birds (which eat a lot of insects). Those are some of the tactics that my hubby and I use in our garden, too.

What about you? Have you found any good eco-friendly methods of controlling insects in your garden that you would like to share?